I remember the MR had an article which mentioned the use of a DAP product to mimic waves and currents but I can’t find it again. Does anyone have an idea how to make waves without using “WS water effects” which is way to expensive? Cheap water ideas world also be greatly appreciated.
I have seen posts where folks have used matte medium gel for ripples and moving water.
In a recent post, they had “teased” the Envirotex as it cured. Looked good but sounded like a lot of time and work to me.
For moving water some use clear silicone caulk, expecially for waterfalls.
Good luck,
Richard
The June 2010 issue of MR had a small article about using silicone caulk for modeling water, it was part of a featured layout called the Suarez Southeastern RR.
Peter
Forum member doctorwayne has some of the best waves on his layout. From memory I think it’s paint and varnish over waves that were sculpted in plaster. Hopefully he’ll join in here. You could always shoot him a PM.
Mike
I use Envirotex Lite for my water. It is not cheap, but it’s a great product that produces great results. It also has a very long shelf life if kept properly sealed between uses. I finally used the last of my first bottles a few weeks ago, after about 5 years of small to medium-sized bodies of water. Buying a big jar of something that is going to harden before you’ve used a third of it may be cheaper to begin with, but the economy vanishes if you can’t use most of it.
And now for that “cheap trick.” Go to www.michaels.com or www.acmoore.com and find their weekly coupons. One of them always seems to have a coupon good for 40% or 50% off of one item. That will bring down the cost of any of the popular “water” products considerably. The two competing craft stores will accept each other’s coupons, too. I’ve found that Michaels is more likely to actually have Envirotex in stock, although both generally carry it.
While you’re there, browse the aisles of craft stores. They have lots of things we use all the time, like paints, brushes, balsa wood and stuff to make trees from, generally cheaper than train-shop prices, too.
Mike, thanks for your kind words. [:D]
I used Durabond-90 patching plaster for my water features. It’s a hard plaster which contains a catalyst, and the setting time, in minutes, is represented by the number following the name. It comes in setting times of either 45 or 90 minutes. It will set regardless of how thick or thin the mix and regardless of the thickness of the application, and it won’t crack even in thick applications.
The riverbed is 3/8" sheathing plywood, supported by a 1"x4" open grid framework, with the joists 16"o/c. The bridge piers and abutments are also Durabond, cast in homemade moulds made from .060" sheet styrene. They were attached to the plywood using yellow carpenter’s glue.
After first removing the bridge (it lifts out as a single unit) I sprayed some “wet” water onto the plywood to prevent it from drawing too much water out of the Durabond. The “water” is a fairly stiff mix (about the consistency of peanut butter), and I simply slopped it on and then levelled it as best I could with various drywall knives. I then used a narrow drywall knife to “tease up” some turbulence around the piers - this step was repeated as necessary until the plaster began to set, as this was my first attempt and I was unsure of exactly when the setting would begin. After allowing it to fully cure (I left it a couple of days, as it’s only about 1/8" thick), I used a 2" or 3" brush to apply a coat of flat interior latex house paint - I used a dirt brown which is my basic “earth” colour, and a dark grey/green which is used on some background trees, applying them wet so that they could be blended somewhat where the colours meet. The next day, I used a
Wow, Doctorwayne, that is some great work, fantastic! My son did this little experimental water scene, he airbrushed the shiny side of a small piece of masonite with acrylic paint, then coated and stippled the surface with a couple of coats of acrylic gloss medium. Don’t know if this method qualifies as “cheap” as I don’t know the cost of gloss medium. While this method looks good, especially when photographed, it loses a lot of effect from certain viewing angles and lighting. Cost and difficulty aside, to my eye the depth and clarity of two part epoxy is hard to beat and from any viewing angle or lighting.
regards, Peter
Oops, sorry, spoke too soon, just talked to my son, he didn’t use acrylic gloss medium over the paint, he used an Ace-hardware product, Poly-finish water based gloss. As the gloss finish dried, he stippled in the “chop”.
regards, Peter
Thanks for the info. I’ll look it up.
Thanks Wayne for the great photos. Your skill level is way beyond my capabilities but I’ll try.
alan
Alan, I think that not much skill was required, as these were my first attempts. I probably should have done a small “test run” off-layout, but I often like to jump right in when I think I can do it. [:-^] I’m satisfied with the results, but it’s only one of many ways to create “water”.
Wayne
Drwayne that is awsome. I especially love the looking outward from the shore over the lake effect. Usually we see the opposite modeled where we’re standing in the “sea” looking toward shore. The view you create is closer to what we usually really see.
Your work is amazing, it’s as good or better than any of the DVDs, books or layouts at shows that I’ve ever seen!
my layout is about 1/3rd water between a long river emptying out to a harbor/Oceanside
i never thought of painting on top of the texture effect, everyone always paints under the clear water effect, I have a 2’x2’ practice piece, I’ll have to try airbrushing a layer of magic water
matthew
Wayne, That is one of the most realistic water scenes I have seen. Wow! Dave
Thanks for your kind remarks, guys. [:$]
The plaster and paint method is an alternative to resin-type “water” products, but you should choose the method best-suited to what you wish to accomplish. There’s no single “right way” to represent water.
Wayne
Great water effects…
im doing a layout with a rather large river emptying to a ocean harbor
im a bit stuck on prepping the little details like painting the areas that will be the high water mark as I’m using magic water and I’m not 100% sure where the high water line will be
im thinking the best bet is to do a “dry” run where I just fill it with a measured amount of water and then somehow find a non permanent way to mark that line…
Any suggestions?
It doesn’t matter if your high water mark extends beyond the poured water, just as long as the high water mark is consistent throughout the shoreline. That’s the hard part.
You have some leeway with a less than full tide, because anything submerged will be darker because it’s wet, and anything not submerged, yet below high tide mark will similarly be darker.
Your idea of a test pour sounds kind of drastic, but yes, it should work. I just winged it when I did mine, going for the ebb tide look. After pouring the resin I had to repaint rocks and shoreline down to the high water mark in order to level the high mark [line]
Mike
thanks for your rreplying went ahead and did a test pour with just water and it was an invaluable test
i found out that I needed to add some sculptmold to the first half of my river, it was way too deep for that setting where there is to be boaters and a ddock my concern is painting and using coloring powders all to show low water marks, but have my pour be uneven, where in some spots the low water line is way ununderwater guess I’m being too anal but I live near a working harbor in Maine and I’ve got plenty of examples of how it should look
matthew
Matthew - it’s good to know your test worked. Nothing wrong with taking pains to get it right, and if it were done wrong it would always be a disappointment. I hope it all goes well.
mike
DAP doesn’t guarantee their products will not yellow. I’ve had DAP products that I have used in the kitchen and bath discolor on me in the past, and some that didn’t. You might not be too happy if all your hard water work started to discolor down the road. Acrylic paint (splash and foam) doesn’t like to stick to Silicon. Food for thought. Personally, I like Magic Water, Red Devil Clear Caulk and Liquitex medium gel. All those claim to be non-yellowing. I also recommend a good, durable clear coating. I like Krylon Crystal Clear. It’s non-yellowing, also. Good luck, and have fun.[:)]
