Better to do (for instance) two layers of .030; or a .050 and a .010? I want to insure the piece stays flat. Pliobond, superglue, epoxy, MEK?
Thanks-
Mike Sayre
I would bond the two thicker pieces and use a good MEK product, personally. Spread the MEK in a sinuous pattern, slide the two together, align the edges if you can (you can always trim them later), and then sandwich them between to flat surfaces. Wait about 6 hours to let it cure fully, longer if you have the time.
Crandell
Why not simply use material .060" thick?
If you do need to laminate two thicknesses together, it should matter-little what thicknesses you choose if the pieces don’t involve a large surface area. I use lacquer thinner, applied with a brush, as the solvent, and you can either apply it to both surfaces and bring them together, or align the pieces beforehand and touch the brush all along the joint - it will be drawn into the joint by capillary action.
If you’re working with large surface areas, it’s better to work with thicker materials - thin sheets can be distorted by trapped solvent vapours. For sheet material, size the brush to the work - you want to get the solvent on both surfaces and joint them while it’s still wet. I often use a 2" brush or wider when required. If necessary, paint it on both sheets, then quickly re-coat the first one before bringing them together. You’ll have a very limited time to align them once they make contact - a good method is to have one sheet on your work surface, then align one edge of the second sheet with it, rolling the second sheet onto the first to avoid trapping pooled solvent or air bubbles in the joint. I like to allow such joints to cure at least overnight.
If you’re making a lamination which necessitates use of thin material, coat both surfaces as sparingly as possible with solvent (but don’t leave any un-coated areas) and allow them to sit for a minute or two - long enough so that neither surface is wet - then coat the thicker piece (or only one piece if both are thin) with a second application of solvent and assemble them together immediately, again rolling one onto the other to avoid trapping pooled solvent or air bubbles.
Wayne
I am attempting to build models of welded-side boxcars in O scale. .030 or .040 for the actual side and smaller pieces of .010 or .015 (to represent the welded panels) laminated on top. I’ll probably use epoxy for (relative) ease of handling and slow drying time.
I’d strongly recommend against epoxy, as it will not make a good bond between such expanses of flat surfaces. I mix epoxy on plastic simply because of that quality: once set, the leftover portions can be easily peeled off the plastic, leaving it clean and smooth for the next job.
I plan to build an 1932 ARA boxcar in a similar manner (in HO) and will use a .060" sheet styrene substructure, and laminate either .010" or .005" styrene to it.
I’d suggest working in sections, marking off the panel joints on the heavy material of the sub-base, then coating only the area for one panel at a time. Use a brush about as wide as the single panel - that way you can coat the area quickly, and, if necessary, let some of the excess solvent evapourate before bringing the two surfaces together. I prefer to have both surfaces coated, with one not wet but still soft, and the other still wet - this way, any trapped solvent simply becomes part of the softened plastic and hardens with the plastic. Allowed to set overnight, it would be unlikely that you could pull the pieces apart without ripping them.
If you wish to accentuate the weld seams, pre-coat the mating edges, then press them tightly together as you place successive panels. This will cause the softened plastic to form a slight ridge along the joint, although it may be somewhat irregular. In that case, allow it to fully harden before attempting to clean it up.
Wayne
For “laminating” larger" sections of styrene, I agree w/ Wayne’s suggestions. For applying smaller or strips, I like using Faller Xpert or Testor’s Model Master’s w/ that needle applicator. The slightly thicker consistancy and slower drying allows added time for any repositioning.