Any suggestions on painting Laser Art structures–good primers to use, and what type of paint will work best?
I use Crafters Acrylics on my structures. This is the Laser Art La Salle House.
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Looks great! Did you use any type of primer?
I also use acrylics, but I like to water them down so I’m actually painting with thin washes. For old, faded wood I use a thin wash of India Ink.
This is the Branchline Trains Weimer’s Mill kit.
And here is the Railway Express Depot. It’s from the Munsville Depot kit.
I’ve never used a primer on my structures, just out of the bottle thinned with distilled water Crafters Acrylics.
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Thanks for your suggestions!
Incidentally that Laser Kit turned my structure building around. After assembling that kit I decided I could do that. I drew up a CAD drawing of that kit and started making full size scale drawings for templates. I’m on my 11th scratch built home since I built that kit. I didn’t think I could build any thing from scratch that would look good enough to put on my layout.
All the plastic kit built houses are goners and its more fun scratch building than buying a kit.
These two are Mel scratch builds.
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
One hint when you paint the wooden laser kits is to make sure that you paint both sides of the pieces of the kit, especially the walls since the walls tend to bend as the paint dries if you only paint one side. Don’t ask me how I know.
Scott Sonntag
Wrong (though this will help), you need bracing which most kits do not include enough of. I corisponded with lots of kit manufactures and did test building for one a bit back.
I once did a scratch build of a wood kit. I had the kit and when I went to build it, I found there were some things I did not like so I took the plans and parts and built a duplicate but with some minor changes like different windows and doors (which of course ment different size openings) and more details and a detailed wall that was just blank because it was in a pass through for rail cars but could be seen clearly from the aisle.
If I’m detailing the inside of my building, I don’t want extra bracing that takes away from the appearance of the interior, so painting on both sides is a solution that works for me[:)]. I also like to be able to take the roof off of my buildings to show the interior.
If the bracing can be done as you would on real structure, yes, then it makes sense to add it to keep the walls, roof…etc straight. Just providing a possible hint.
Scott
Look into tiny magnets to hold the roof in place.
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I would never say anyone else is wrong, we all have different ways of doing things.
I use Minwax Conditioner on the wood, and then press it flat as it dries. This has always worked very well for me. I do not add interior bracing, but I cover the inside walls with Cinefoil to prevent light leaks.
Most of my wood kits and scratchbuilds have been painted with old Floquil paints in the past, but in the future I will probably use Americana or Folk Art craft paints.
-Kevin
Kevin, do you apply it to both sides or just one? Does it act as a stiffener as well as a painting aid?
Thanks,
Eric
Thanks for the suggestion Mel. Most of the kits that I’m building have slots for the roof to slide into to keep them in place but having magnets in addition would prevent accidental movement of the roof.
Scott
This is the size of the magnets I use to hold the roof and flooring in place on my HO scratch built houses.
I use ⅛” x ⅜” to hold my structures to my layout.
Larger magnets are too powerful.
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
I apply it to both sides. It is very thin and dries quickly.
From my experience, it does not make the wood any more stiff. I use it mostly to prevent warping when painting, which seems to work quite well.
-Kevin
Kevin, could you give us a bit of info on how you use Cinefoil. I for one had never heard of it. I did look it up using a Google search but I would like to know how you apply it. Sounds interesting.
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Cinefoil is used in the movie industry to block light leaks. Light leaks on the set will result in weird looking shots.
I cut a piece the same height as a floor (storey) on a building I am assembling, Then I wrap it around the inside and glue it to the walls with small dabs of epoxy. I find a spot with no windows and overlap the ends about 1/4". Then I make a piece to cover the ceiling and press it into place, again overlapping the walls about 1/4". Then I trim the window openings with a sharp #11 blade.
I only did this to two small buildings on the previous layout as an experiment, and it blocked all light except for the windows perfectly. Interior lighting looked a lot better.
Hopefully I will be able to do this on all the buildings on the new layout.
-Kevin
Mel, your buildings, vehicles, and lighting always amaze me.
A little different, but I had the same situation. When I started my layout, I bought some plastic kits. I quickly realized that I could make those structures myself for a particular place on the layout.
I make mine out of styrene, and this has quickly become my most favorite part of model railroading.
I’m tempted to start trying to make some out of wood just to see if I can do it. I will have to remember everyone’s tips here on how to paint the wood.