The newest DCC turntable instructions have two wiring diagrams. One is for a DC layout that calls for a separate power supply, and the other is for a DCC layout that specifys a booster… Since I have an NCE power pro with wireless throttles, I suspect I would use the DCC diagram.
This diagram shows the power coming from a booster. I have no booster so do I use track power or a wall wart?
Bruce, if you have the NCE Power House Pro, you have a booster. It plugs into an AC oulet and connects via cable to your DCC command station.
You cannot make a direct physical connection to the booster, so I assume that the instruction means to tap off the two bus wires.
Rich
Bruce,
Yes use the track bus wires to power the DCC turntable. The instructions say the track booster connections, those are just the track bus wires.
I hope I don’t confuse here: it used to be that the base of the turntable had a multi-pin connector something like a telephone cable, but thicker, that clicked into the control unit. This was the DCC control. Two feeders from your bus would also go into receptacles in the control body. The control body took DCC power from the bus and fed it up the phone-type cable to power the bridge rails. So far, so good.
The instructions used to specify either a DC or an AC, your choice, wall wart, but within a range of voltage in either case. I think it had to be between 12 and 19 or 20 volts, can’t remember. It also specified that the power supply must not have a throughput greater than 0.5 amp. I tinned the two wire ends coming out of the power supply, in my case a used and verified AC 16 v and 0.5 amp, and I believe they inserted into terminals in the control unit as well. Therefore, that one phone cable brough power and rail DCC to the drive motor for the bridge and the tracks on the bridge respectively.
-Crandell
That’s all he needs to know. The assembled DCC-friendly turntable needs no wall wart.
Dante