I have been using diluted yellow wood glue to bond my flex track to the cork roadbed, after I place the ballast between the rails (only). I tack the track in place with push pins until the glued ballast dries. I was wondering if anyone has used latex paint to glue the track down. It is very hard to get dried paint off used track when it was used during the scenery phase. Just wondered if anyone has experience with it.
Just to let everyone know; I learn a lot of useful info from this forum just reading what others have to say. Keep up the good work.
In my opinion it does not matter what is used for bonding track to roadbed as long as you are satisfied with the results. I used white glue to bond the flex track and turnouts to my portables and they have lasted for 7 years now and show no signs of problems. Others use latex caulk, Camper tape, glue, epoxy, rubber cement, or just spikes and nails. What ever works for you is the best solution.
I model in N scale, but I have done projects in O and HO.
Because I use extruded foam for the base nails aren’t really practical… So I outline my plan onto the foam and then use tacky glue to glue down the foam roadbed, it works fine with cork also…Whn its dry I run a bead of it down the center seam of the roadbed and lay track on it, and pin the track in place. It works just fine and lasts well.
In my opinion the technique works well in HO also, but my HO layouts were of the small tabletop variety with no grades.
In O scale, I used the old fashioned Lionel track and 5/16 inch quare dowel for ties and screwed the track into dowel that had been glued down.
Glue has a lot of strength because of the surface area it covers. and white glue is a reversible solution.
I think anything that would stick the track to the cork would work, but if you think you might have to take up the track at a later date to reconfigure it, you might want to use latex caulk for easier track removal. Also I’ve read that the latex caulk stays rubbery and acts to help deaden sound transmission from the track to the bench work.
I agree with the original responder that you can and should use whatever works for you. However, latex paint tends to crack when flexed repeatedly over time, and may give you less than satisfactory results.
Personally, I use latex caulk, and am very happy with the results. If you do, make sure you spread it thinly. You don’t want it oozing up between your ties, or it’s really hard to ballast.
Latex paint will hold down the track but only for a few days. After it drys and gets hard the track will “break loose” as soon as a few trains have rolled over it. I was curious myself when I started to paint my pink foam to a more manly chocolate brown. The same applies for cork or foam.
One thing I did find handy was when I was laying out track sections for test fitting on the newly painted foam. The turnouts and track would stay in place. I found this lasted for about two weeks after I painted. It was almost like having velcro to hold things and it was easily adjustable. Eventually the caulk did have to come out though.
thanks guys, I think I will just pass on the latex paint idea. I didn’t think about the cracking from flexing which makes a lot of sense now that I think about it. I bought some gray/grey latex caulk and will give it a try.
Latex paint makes a good glue - I use it to glue Pink/Blue foam together and also it holds the track down quite well. I have a real problem prying the the track loose if I need to do so!
Wall paint will stay tacky for years as I used it on a bookcase by mistake and the paint still sticks paper down to it 10 years after.
As for the latex paint cracking - I wonder what type of paint was being used as I use any of the mis-tint paint from the big box stores and have never had any problem with the paint cracking!
Now with the wood expanding and contracting will cause the paint to crack but that is not the fault of the paint.
Since foam doesn’t expand or contract the paint/glue of pieces together works great.
Actually, Bob, I’m wondering what brand you’re using if it “stays tacky for years”. How on earth would you keep it clean?
But no one has said it’s the fault of the paint… we’re warning the OP that he will likely be less than satisfied with his results if he tries using it to fastend down track. I have used latex paint successfully to hold scenic materials in place, but never track.
The problem is, foam doesn’t expand and contract much, but your track WILL move slightly as your trains run over it. Your track will also expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity in your layout room, unless you have a perfectly controlled environment.
I was just woundering! What do you guys think of useing double sided foam tape to bond flex track with-out cork roadbed? I haven’t tryed it but it seems like it might work fine. JUST WOUNDERING
Well the paint I used on the book cases was regular wall paint but the y were done more than 25 years ago - So I don’t know what type it was back then! But that was then. Now - on my current layout I have some track glued down (using wall paint) to - Foam - Homasote and to White Pine wood! It has been this way for 5 years or so - as the layout is approaching the 10 year mark and the track is still just as tight to the Foa
Yes, many do use this, however, double sided tape doesn’t allow for any minor adjustments once placed. The caulk will allow ample time to position the track, make adjustments and can be removed if desired w/ a flexable putty knife. Double sided tape can be a real problem for any track repositioning or removal.
The double sided tape can also be a real problem with the reaiming sticky portion grabbing all kinds of junk prior to ballasting. Where this tape is used at turnouts and some of the unwanted crud can really cause a headache. Often times ballasting is purposely done very lightly or not at all at the throwbar.
It’s a good idea if the height is right for profiling the ballast. Camper topper tape was mentioned a few posts up. Same thing for practical purposes. [:)]
