The last time I laid any model track was about 30 years ago - HO sectional track flat on plywood
Now I’m working on a 2 ft x 4 ft N scale layout. I have Atlas code 80 snap-track, am planning on using ceiling tile for subroadbed, and using small nails and ‘bonded ballast’ to attach the track to the road bed. I’ve looked at cork and the woodland senics ‘trackbed’ for the roadbed.
The thing that has me puzzled is how to lay the roadbed smoothly along a 9 3/4" or 11" radius curve. It doesn’t appear to want to lie flat when I flex it in my hands. Will I need to cut slits every few inches to make it curve? Does it just work out when it is actually being tacked down to a flat surface?
If you are using ceiling tile, then yes, you will have to make it possible for the stuff to bend by cutting the slits you describe. That’s one disadvantage of using an inheritantly stiff material. It’s your call, and if you like cutting all those slits, go for it.
Many folks use cork roadbed.
For a really elegant solution, try the AMI roadbed. It’s very flexible, wasy to lay, and much more.
There’s a thread in the this forum started by rsn48 on AMI roadbed. Go back through August’s posts, and you’ll find it. Worth the read. It may save you a whole lot of slit cutting [:D]
I’ve been using cork and sanding the roadbed with coarse sandpaper to clean up the uneven spots. If the roadbed sags along the center it’s no problem. The ties will bridge the gap. High spots in the center need to be sanded flat to avoid unexpected superelevations. I also like to go over the edges of the cork roadbed to remove the “flash” and round off the roadbed a little.
Sorry, I misread your original post as ceiling tile for roadbed rather than sub-roadbed. [:o]
So, how to do curves in ceiling tile? I think that you draw the curve out on the tile, and cut the tile to the curve, rather than try to make the tile bend. You don’t want to have those slits in the sub roadbed, I think. This is going top take more tile, but it will be better in the long run.
Then when the sub bed’s down, try the AMI for the roadbed itself.
It sounds as if you have the tile already. The post about Homasote is worth paying attention to if you haven’t got the tile already. It seems to be the sub roadbed of choice in the magazines. I’ve only used it once, in a very limited section. I was quite satisfied with how it worked. Trouble is (for me) it’s not available, and it’s not as cheap as, say, your tile.
Ceiling tile can be used without buckling. If you cut the ceiling tile in straight strips you must kerf it for curves. Cut the kerfs (inside of curve) every 1/4" - 3/8" about two-thirds to three-quarters the way across to releive the stress caused by bending. The inside radius is smaller than the outside radius hence the buckling. Attach it to the sub-roadbed with adhesive (liquild nails or comparable adhesive). Once laid you will then need to go back and fill the kerfs with a wood filler or plaster repair filler. Then sand it smooth.
Ceiling tile WILL swell with humidity and crumble if it gets wet. Once kerfed, glued, filled and sanded I would recommend you spray a coat or two of layex paint to seal it from the elements.
If you are getting the ceiling tile for free then you may save a few bucks but the extra time and work may not be worth the savings.
Also, if you are a prototyplical builder ceiling tile is way to thick for N scale.
It sounds like I’m only slightly further along than you. I recently had great success installing Woodland Scenics’ Track-Bed on top of latex painted, EPS foam on my 3’x6’ N-scale layout. I have curves varying from 9-3/4" to 19".
I found that splitting the Track-Bed along its partial pre-cut midline made a smooth installation a snap. First, I assembled my layout on the painted foamboard. Then, I marked the centerline of the ties with dots. Removing the layout, I connected the dots with a pen, then glued down one-half of the Track-Bed at a time. The straight sections were very straight, and the curves molded perfectly.
The last time I laid any model track was about 30 years ago - HO sectional track flat on plywood
Now I’m working on a 2 ft x 4 ft N scale layout. I have Atlas code 80 snap-track, am planning on using ceiling tile for subroadbed, and using small nails and ‘bonded ballast’ to attach the track to the road bed. I’ve looked at cork and the woodland senics ‘trackbed’ for the roadbed.
The thing that has me puzzled is how to lay the roadbed smoothly along a 9 3/4" or 11" radius curve. It doesn’t appear to want to lie flat when I flex it in my hands. Will I need to cut slits every few inches to make it curve? Does it just work out when it is actually being tacked down to a flat surface?
If you are using ceiling tile, then yes, you will have to make it possible for the stuff to bend by cutting the slits you describe. That’s one disadvantage of using an inheritantly stiff material. It’s your call, and if you like cutting all those slits, go for it.
Many folks use cork roadbed.
For a really elegant solution, try the AMI roadbed. It’s very flexible, wasy to lay, and much more.
There’s a thread in the this forum started by rsn48 on AMI roadbed. Go back through August’s posts, and you’ll find it. Worth the read. It may save you a whole lot of slit cutting [:D]
I’ve been using cork and sanding the roadbed with coarse sandpaper to clean up the uneven spots. If the roadbed sags along the center it’s no problem. The ties will bridge the gap. High spots in the center need to be sanded flat to avoid unexpected superelevations. I also like to go over the edges of the cork roadbed to remove the “flash” and round off the roadbed a little.
Sorry, I misread your original post as ceiling tile for roadbed rather than sub-roadbed. [:o]
So, how to do curves in ceiling tile? I think that you draw the curve out on the tile, and cut the tile to the curve, rather than try to make the tile bend. You don’t want to have those slits in the sub roadbed, I think. This is going top take more tile, but it will be better in the long run.
Then when the sub bed’s down, try the AMI for the roadbed itself.
It sounds as if you have the tile already. The post about Homasote is worth paying attention to if you haven’t got the tile already. It seems to be the sub roadbed of choice in the magazines. I’ve only used it once, in a very limited section. I was quite satisfied with how it worked. Trouble is (for me) it’s not available, and it’s not as cheap as, say, your tile.
Ceiling tile can be used without buckling. If you cut the ceiling tile in straight strips you must kerf it for curves. Cut the kerfs (inside of curve) every 1/4" - 3/8" about two-thirds to three-quarters the way across to releive the stress caused by bending. The inside radius is smaller than the outside radius hence the buckling. Attach it to the sub-roadbed with adhesive (liquild nails or comparable adhesive). Once laid you will then need to go back and fill the kerfs with a wood filler or plaster repair filler. Then sand it smooth.
Ceiling tile WILL swell with humidity and crumble if it gets wet. Once kerfed, glued, filled and sanded I would recommend you spray a coat or two of layex paint to seal it from the elements.
If you are getting the ceiling tile for free then you may save a few bucks but the extra time and work may not be worth the savings.
Also, if you are a prototyplical builder ceiling tile is way to thick for N scale.
It sounds like I’m only slightly further along than you. I recently had great success installing Woodland Scenics’ Track-Bed on top of latex painted, EPS foam on my 3’x6’ N-scale layout. I have curves varying from 9-3/4" to 19".
I found that splitting the Track-Bed along its partial pre-cut midline made a smooth installation a snap. First, I assembled my layout on the painted foamboard. Then, I marked the centerline of the ties with dots. Removing the layout, I connected the dots with a pen, then glued down one-half of the Track-Bed at a time. The straight sections were very straight, and the curves molded perfectly.
