I am using mostly flex track on my layout and wanted to know what is the best way to cut the track? Do i need a special tool or will using a dremel tool work? Also, connecting the track together, what is is better, track joiners or soldering the joints?
Thanks,
I prefer to use track cutting pliers like the Xuron brand http://www.micromark.com/Xuron-Track-Cutter,9199.html A dremel would work of course, but I think the pliers work quicker.
Join with rail joiners and then solder the joint after the rail joiners are in place.
I like the Xuron Track Cutter. I only use a Dremel when I am cutting track out of the layout or putting in gaps.
I would never consider a rail connection without a rail joiner. Personally I do not solder the rail joiners unless they are on a curve.
Note: When using flex track on curves, a good practice is to solder the joints before laying the curve. I lay the flex track with the sliding rail to the inside of the curve.
I use the Xuron rail nipper, too. But I use the saw (from Atlas ? / Roco) too. This saw is very good for cutting gaps into the rails.
Wolfgang
I mostly use the xuron. Just make sure you have the part of the rail that’s staying to the back of the nippers. If cut on the front side you will have an angled edge.
I will angle it slightly on purpose. Cutting top to bottom gives the cleanest cut and very little filing. Also put a slight chamfer on the rail head.
See there you go. There are many ways to do the same thing. To me that is not a good practice. The presoldered joint has to move to far and can easily destroy many ties. I prefer to do the joints in place and destroy zero ties.
My joint. Soldered in place.
I guess it depends on how tight you are curving it, even down to 22" radius I only have 4 ties to replace. On my old layout with 30" curves there were maybe 2 ties, sometimes just 1 to fit in. I just find it much easier to solder the two sections at the workbench than doing it bending over the layout (or barely being able to see it, depending on on how high you build). I also solder feeders on at the same time, so I have a 6’ section soldered together with feeders ready to go.
With a little care I could probably eliminate removing ties even when pre-soldered - just have to use the rail nippers on BOTH sides of the inner rail, allowing the joint ot stay right where it is. Dunno why this just came to me and I didn’t think of it before.
–Randy
Solder rail joiners for curves, I guess both Texas Zepher and Randy are right to an extent. You need to remove ties anyway. It would all depend on how tight a radius. I will pre bend to find the slide of the rail and figure the ties to remove and how much rail to cut for the stagged joint. Tighter radius that many use less than 24" it is good practice to presolder those joints. You will undoubtedly end up w/ slight kinking @ the joint as you cannot get the rail ends to flow smoothly w/o tweakng the rails w/ pliers, possibly damaging the rail ends as you try to solder. This may work for some but I have never had any luck obtaining a perfect arc. When replacing the ties I will file a slot or knife out for the thickness of the rail joiner. Even though you may think it is so thin it won’t cause a hump, it will. It is better to have the tie loose under the rail than tight and possibly lifting the joint.
