Is laying flex track complicated like i think it is? I’m pretty frustrated with my layout as i have the track already but somethings not right with the planning. It seems like it will be complicated laying the track. I’m sure it would be better starting with a straight section instead of in or close to a curve right? the plan is below, and i was told since i was using flex it would be easier and better to eliminate the straight sections in the curves. I can deal with that, just how will i lay the track following the plan and coming to the turnouts and everything. I know it will take some work.
Weeellllll…it is quite a bit more complicated than snapping EZ-Track or Unitrack together. But, once you learn how to join the lengths, and if you have smooth roadbed, it’s pretty slick. You’ll have to deal with the odd issue, especially with the staggered joints on curves, and you figure out how to file off the spikehead details to slide ties back into place so that there’s not hump at the joints, or how to slice down on the spike heads to free room for the joiners (it’s easier to just nip and remove the ties, file the spikeheads off, plus a bit more of the tie, and then there’s room for the joiner thickness).
There is a tendency with flex track to ruin what should be straightforward curves. You start a bit too wide, and then curl the ends tighter than you had wanted to get them to line up with the tangents or a turnout. This is where a template really helps. You can purchase the proper radius template, forget the name, and once your curves are laid, joining to any length of tangent or to a turnout should be relatively easy.
It’s like anything else…you fiddle, you ask, you watch youtube videos, dozens of 'em, and then you start laying good tracks that actually work!
Crandell
Are you going to lay it on flat surface (e.g., plywood)? And are you going to lay roadbed first (e.g., cork)?
I started with a plan (with grid printed) from XTrackCAD software, similar to your plan in detail (I knew which type turnouts, what radii curves). I then pencil marked a 6" grid on the plywood. Then, I marked the entire plan onto the plywood. I started at some turnouts I wanted to use as an anchor / start point, marking the ties layout as well as the rail ends. Then marked straight track centerline, like along your edge. Then marked first curve encountered. You can use a yardstick “trammel” like described in some booklet articles. In my case, I also made some brown paper (from 36" painters paper) 1" wide curves ranging from 22" to 36", which I would use trial and error to see exactly what worked best. I sometimes allowed a curve radius to vary as I found useful (nothing says it has to be consistent…gradual changes are ok for me). If marking a curve with paper, I marked both edges and then eyeballed the middle for the centerline. If using transitions into/out of curves (pretty easy) it’s good to mark the curve entry exits accordingly.
Then, I started laying cork roadbed along the centerline (I attached with Alex Plus caulk). I used the turnouts to mark the ties layout, then custom made the turnout cork roadbed, then continued laying cork away from the turnout. I then laid critical turnouts at the start point (won’t go into all that detail here) and laid attached track using caulk. I tended to secure my turnouts lightly with caulk, some folks let them float for later removal ease. I used N80 rail joiners on my code 83 track, and soldered most of them (but few at turnouts). When laying flex curves, I used the method described in several booklets; i.e., cutting away some ties (to be ad
Flat surface with foam board on top, and roadbed also. That’s part of the problem also. I tried to recreate the plan, but I can never do it correctly. I guess I need to try harder.
I have watched many videos, a tutorial on how to prevent kinks in curves. And many others. I think my problem is just a starting point. Also, do the curves look to be 18’’ radii?
I’ll assume this is a 4’ x 8’ layout. If so, the outer left curve would have about 2" clearance where it comes to each long edge of the table, and a straight section looking like the usual 9" on the short edge, which leaves 35" diameter for the two quarter circles if they were joined without the straight section. So let’s conclude the outer left radius is 18" and the track centers to long table edges only 1-1/2", which sounds unreasonably close. The inner left arc is therefore about 15" radius
a) what kind of rolling stock do you want to run? with 18" you will have some equipment that will run on it and some that won’t. any 15" radii is really limited in what it will handle (or, there are many items it won’t handle)
b) are you limited to 4’ x 8’? if not, there are tons of options
c) you can see that eliminating (or shortening) the straight section allows greater radii, though enhancing the table edge clearance slightly will take away from that somewhat
If the plan is on a 4’x8’ sheet of plywood, yes, the curves look like 18"r.
One thing you can do, if you have some sectional track, put a few pieces together to make your curve template. You can use old brass or steel track as the radius is the same. This might help you laying your curves out on the surface.
Getting started can be the hardest part. I laid sectional track, thought I had it all flat and kinkless. Most trains ran fine. Then one loco I don’t use much dragged on a bump that no other loco paid attention to. Now a new loco has found a place that the track was under a bit of stress. The first problem was resolved by shortening a curved piece less than 1/16". The other I just slid a putty knife under the track to free it from the layout, close to the turnout. So far it has cured the problem. Now that it has had a chance to reset itself, I will now try to reattach it, so it stops floating. The float is quite noticeable as it is right on the front of the layout.
My suggestion is just get some down the best you can and test it, test it, test it. My track has been down several years on foam, so there’s no humidity issues, but different locos will find things others haven’t. Don’t despair, it’s normal. It’s also one reason that many folks don’t ballast their track until last, to be sure their track work is perfect.
Good luck,
Richard
Limited to 4x8 I was planning to run some GP units. boxcars and whatever else may be able to fit on the outer loop
Thanks for the words of encouragement! I do have some 18’’ radius pieces of lifelike powerloc track. That should work for the outer loop. Is there any way to measure the radius?
Using flex you can make the outer curve 20+" radius and the inner curve 18" radius. Or the outer radius could be as much as 22": close to the table edge, but a perimeter fascia that rises above the table top would provide security.
Get a wood yardstick and drill holes at-for example-the 1" mark for a pivot point then at the 1"+ whatever-radius-you-want mark. Stick a nail in the 1" pivot hole and a pencil or pen in the radii holes and voila, you have a trammel with which to plot your radii on the table top.
For laying flex, Ribbonrail guides are very helpful in making uniformly curved or straight track and for making smooth, non-kinked connections between sections of track.
Not difficult, just take your time to do it right.
Dante
So that would still fit on 4x8?
As Dante suggests, changing the left arcs to 18" inner and say 21" outer curves will work. That will slide the upper left turnout to the right somewhat, but you can closer couple that to the inner turnouts to the right to minimize the impact on the yard. Your long table edges would be 2" from track centers (2-1/2" if you make the outer curve 20-1/2" radius), which I would prefer.
On the right end, making the inner loop 18" with the straight turnout in the middle is a bit of a challenge, with the aforementioned table edge spacing, if it’s a standard 9" straight section turn out. I’d strive to maintain the 18" minimum curves by finding a turnout that can be trimmed to less than 9" straight section. Most turnouts can be trimmed somewhat as long as any underneath “jumpers” such as on DCC friendly Walther Shinohara code 83s, are not removed.
Or possibly (I think this would work) use a curved turnout (e.g., Walther Shinohara code 83 nominal #6-1/2, nominal 24 / 20 radii) if that would work with attached 18+" curves (or if anyone makes a tighter curved turnout that maintains at least 18" inner radius). Note the W-S turnout nominal radii are usually actually about 2" tighter than advertised for the inner radius. I like this option best. It is more complicated to install; e.g., it might require tweaking the right to left positions of the connected turnouts slightly since the arc would not be symmetrical if the curved turnout were not in the exact middle. So a trimmed straight turnout is the easier option.
The right outer curve can mirror the radius on the left end. If it does (no straight section) that would slide the straight sections slightly left. Or, if you want to minimize the left shifting, use your minimum 18" radii and shorten the straight section slightly as needed depending on your long
So the track would be closer together if I used 18’’ and 22’’ and it would still fit.
Ok I think I really have it now!! But im using atlas turnouts which i have been told that the left passing uses #6 the three track yard uses #4 and the rest are snap switches.
If you want to use standard radii, just get a couple pieces of the sectional track and usethem as a template. Since you’re going to use flextrack, try this; find a straight edge at least 4’ long. Decide how wide a curve you want (2"from the long edges would give you a 22" radius, if you want larger, run closer to the edge). Measure back from the short end the radius of the cure plus the distance from the edge and install your straight edge. So, if you want a 23" radius curve that is 1-1/2" from the edge, measure in 24-1/2". Make sure your straight edge is perpendicular to the long edge. Install the turnouts in the upper right and lower right so that the end of the straight leg is right on the straight edge and (for this example) parallel to and 1-1/2" away from the long edge of your table. Connect these two turnouts with a smooth arc of flextrack. Just be aware that the upper and lower tangent track will be somewhat shorter. Repeat this on the other side for the outer track, then connect the turnouts. Now it will be fairly obvious what modifications you will need to make to the inner loop.
If you eliminate the straight sections of the end curves and make the curves wider in the process, your main straight sections along the long edge will become a lot shorter, or you will need a bigger table.
No offense intended to the original poster, but you seem to be having a lot of trouble with this. Maybe you would be better off with a trackplan from a book or magazine articles that gives you instructions on every step.
I would be completely fine with that. If only i could find a good one. It took me three months just to find that one. I am limited to 4x8. I guess i’ll have to start the hunt again, If you have any suggestions, please send them to me.
The track plan above is designed for use with sectional track. If you look, you can see where the joints are. You could build that using stock pieces. But let’s go a step further – you need look no further than your own imagination for a track plan. If you’re having trouble finding one, it’s because you already have a pretty good idea of what you want. I think your real problem is that you are afraid of making a mistake. To steal the Nike motto, just do it. Do it with the understanding that, as with everything else that you attempt for the first time, you’re likely to screw it up pretty spectacularly. So what. Pull out the parts that don’t work and try again. No one here started out as an expert. Most of us learned through trial and error. Give it a shot and see what happens. Your other issue is that you’re too concerned with what WE think. Only one person has to be happy with this layout, and that’s you.
Thanks! Just one more question. What track planning software should i use. I need something with all the current model tracks built in like anyrail, but i need to be able to see my 4x8 area as i am designing. That’s my only problem with the software, i can’t see the area and i can’t tell if it is 4x8 or not.
Why?
The Virginian 4X8 series that was in MR magazine beginning January 2012. Here is a thread about people building it
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/202934.aspx
The Atlas track plan books like this one
http://www.atlasrr.com/Images/Books/9%20HO%20RRing%20Book%20Cover.jpg
Or this one
http://www.kalmbachstore.com/12197.html
View the Anyrail tutorial. Make sure your units are in inches. Click the tab “insert”. Enter “96” for the width and “48” for the height next to “add rectangle”. Then click “add rectangle”. Then draw over that
Or go to settings and make sure your grid size is 12" and use that.