Laying flextrack to a set radius?

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

I’m new to railroading, I’m working in n scale…

im having a problems laying flextrack to a set radius

i have a set of pretty nice radius gauges, tracksetta and I’m putting in an 18" radius

are there any tricks getting that radius from just being tacked down with T pins to being mounted to cork bed all the while holding to that radius give or take a little bit?

Matthew

2

What brand of flex track are you using? They’re quite different, and each one has its own quirks and ways of getting a good curve.

I use Atlas flex track in HO. It’s very springy. I find it’s best to lay the track with the loose rail on the inside of the curve.

I use a template for my curves, just a quarter-round cut from a corrugated cardboard box.

3

thanks for the reply, I’m using Atlas code 55 flex track with the sliding rail on the inside of the ccurve.

my radius gauges are only like 6 or 7 inches long

matthew

4

I made a paper gauge that accounted for the cork roadbed radius. I then traced around the edge to give me the radius on the bench work both inside and outside diameter. Then I test fit everything and used silicone to hold it all down with. My paper gauge was 90* This allowed me to work with smaller sections at a time. Hope this help.

5

so did you use a large wooden compass like creation? I know there is a better name for it but it escapes me at the moment…

Matthew

6

First you put down the caulk and there is a trick, cut small pieces of styrene, I use 1/4x1/4 and lay these out every 10" or so in the caulk cross-ways. Start with the one end with the gage already placed in the one end (I use Ribbonrail), and start to T pin it as you slide the gauge around the turn removing the styrene as it gets in your way.

7

Matthew,

I only use the radius gauges after I lay the track(to verify there are no tight spots. Here is how I lay flex track:

  • I physically lay out the curve using a tool made out of a yard stick with holes drilled in it to match the radius I want. For example, I drill a small hole at 1" and 19" - This gives me the 18" radius I want. I run a small nail through the 1" hole and use a pencil to mark the curve by inserting the tip of the pencil into the 19" hole and ‘sweeping’ the curve out with the pencil.
  • Once the track center lines are laid out, I attach the cork roadbed by attaching it along the marked center lines.
  • Track - flex the track down through the curve and attach it. A good idea is to start the flex a few inches into the straight section - less chance of a ‘kink’ at the intersection of the straight/curve.
  • Now - use your Tracksetta tool to make sure there are no tight spots. If you are using acrylic caulk to lay the track, you will need to get the Tracksetta tool into the picture before the caulk sets up. The ‘T Pins’ are a good idea to hold the track while the caulk sets up. You know you have good track when the Tracksetta tool moved smooth through the curve. Myself, I use Ribbon rail gauges, but it’s just a different brand.

If you are laying the track on just foam, you are going to have too have patience - There is little for the ‘T Pins’ to really grab into.

Jim

8

So your saying that to lay the trackbed you put down a lot of caulk in the general arc that exact radius will follow?

9

thank you…

Your method fits in my brain better…so you make a simple tramel to lay down your lines.

i’ve been trying to layout all the track just on blue foam to catch any oversights in my layout plan

matthew

10

Yes I used a yard stick as Jim mentioned. I drilled holes at various radius that I wanted. I then tacked the zero end down and drew on several sheets of 11x17 paper taped together. Once I had the inside and outside diameters drawn I cut it out. I did this because I have an open table design and no place to fix the center point to. I taped one end down where I wanted to start and tacked down along the paper to see where things ended up.

11

Thanks I think this should help my flextrack laying

matthew

12

Matthew,

You don’t need to have either track or cork on hand to lay out your curves. As Jim said, get your centerline drawn on the foam first. Once the line is drawn, put down a very small bead of latex caulk along the centerline and spread it very thin, about as wide as your cork. It may help to take a wall paper seam roller or other tool (tin can) and press the cork down onto the base. When laying your cork, stagger the ends, so that the seams across the cork do not line up. Once the caulk is set (about 24 hours) take a small sanding block and sand both the tapered edges to smooth where you seperated the pieces and the top to make sure it is even.

To lay the track, do the same, thin bead of caulk, spread very thin (if it comes up between the ties you have too much) then put your track down along the centerline. DO NOT put any caulk under your turnouts. Use your pins to hold it on the curves until the caulk sets up. It is a good idea to weigh the track down while the caulk sets up. A board with a couple of cans, some folks use full beer or soda cans, anything to give it a little pressure to make sure it is firmly set in place.

I also suggest that before you put your track down that you paint the area under your turnouts a color close to your ballast color (you can do all the roadbed if you want). This makes it so that you do not need to put so much ballast around your turnouts, as the cork will not show through.

Good luck,

Richard

13

Richard, thank you very much for taking the time to give me a well written reply, it is appreciated! Matthew

14

You don;t need to spread caulk over a wide area - since you have pre-marked the center line of the track, you only need to put a THIN bead of caulk along the center line and spread it thin - if you aren’t using cork, you should be able to see that pencil mark throught he caulk, that’s how little of it you actually need. If you are using caulk, and have placed the caulk along the drawn centerline on the benchwork, then the cork centerline is now the track centerline, approximately. You don;t have to coat the entire top of the cork with caulk.

Definitely do extend the end partly into the straight area. Secure that with pushpins, and then you can bend around the curve. Atls flex takes a natural arc, so it will come out close all by itself. If you then trunt he radius gauge along the rails, the caulk has plenty enough give to allow the track to be nudged into position to the curve is perfect. A few pushpins will keep it in place until the caulk sets.

–Randy