I HAVE MY TRAIN TABLE OF 2X4S AND PLYWOOD TOP DONE. I WANT TO COVER THE PLYWOOD WITH 1/2 INCH STRYAFOAM AND GLUE THE GARGRAVES DOWN WITH THE PROPER TUBE OF GLUE (FOR FOAM AND WOOD) I CAN CARVE OUT A DITCH NEXT TO THE TRACK AND EVERY THING ELSE WILL BE THE RIGHT HIGHT FOR STREETS ETC… WHY SHOULD I NOT DO THIS ???
I don’t see any reason why it shouldn’t work but a couple of things to consider.
If you change your mind or want to salvage the track in the future having it glued at every tie will make things difficult. You’ll need to temporarily secure the track with screws to the sub-base to hold it in place during construction while the glue dries removing the screws after your done.
My installation isn’t too different. I used the fibrous composit insulation over plywood and glued cork roadbed to that with water based baseboard adhesive (made cleanup easier) and held the cork in place with staples. When I laid track I screwed it down through to the plywood, when my ballasting was completed and dried I started removing the screws on the main lines since this is where the trains run at speed and generate the noise. It’s been over a year and I haven’t had any problem with loosening.
I HAVE MY TRAIN TABLE OF 2X4S AND PLYWOOD TOP DONE. I WANT TO COVER THE PLYWOOD WITH 1/2 INCH STRYAFOAM AND GLUE THE GARGRAVES DOWN WITH THE PROPER TUBE OF GLUE (FOR FOAM AND WOOD) I CAN CARVE OUT A DITCH NEXT TO THE TRACK AND EVERY THING ELSE WILL BE THE RIGHT HIGHT FOR STREETS ETC… WHY SHOULD I NOT DO THIS ???
I don’t see any reason why it shouldn’t work but a couple of things to consider.
If you change your mind or want to salvage the track in the future having it glued at every tie will make things difficult. You’ll need to temporarily secure the track with screws to the sub-base to hold it in place during construction while the glue dries removing the screws after your done.
My installation isn’t too different. I used the fibrous composit insulation over plywood and glued cork roadbed to that with water based baseboard adhesive (made cleanup easier) and held the cork in place with staples. When I laid track I screwed it down through to the plywood, when my ballasting was completed and dried I started removing the screws on the main lines since this is where the trains run at speed and generate the noise. It’s been over a year and I haven’t had any problem with loosening.