I have a 60" straight section that I am thinking of laying on a 2% grade using the WS risers. Go up 1/2" for 24", across for 12" and then down 1/2" for 24". I am planning on sanding the transition between the slope and the straight portion a bit to soften the transition between the grade and the level portion. The question is, when the track is laid, does it make a difference if I have a joint at the transition or can I just lay flex track up and over onto the straight portion without a joint at the transition. I would prefer to do the latter
hi Bear,
when using flextrack in curves, whether vertical or horizontal, you should solder two pieces together before bending the tracks. In general it will be the best to avoid joints on transitions.
The extra length for the transitions should be the length of your longest car for every 2% change of grade. You probably need 4 of them.
Paul
Thank you Paul.
You should avoid the joints mid-curve if practicable, and by that I mean if you are not very handy and don’t want to learn how to deal with the problem of the last two inches of flex track not wanting to bend.
As Paul says, soldering is probably the way to go. There are other mechanical means to accomplish this. You can use tiny screws, glues, adhesive caulking, deckand/or drywall screws, or actually bend the rails so that they want to retain the curvature you intend for them at that place. You can bend flex, carefully, in control all the time, so that it will neutralize with a slight curvature, even at the very tips of each length. It just takes some thinking. The results are worth it.
Crandell
Sometimes the LION does not nail down the track at the bottom of a vertical curve, but lets the track find its own level and then ballast in under it. NO JOINTS at vertical transitions, plan around that. Yow will have to have joints within your curves, solder these together while the sections are still straight and then gently curve them.
ROAR
Here I am, being a contrarian again!
I have rail joints on my vertical transitions, one of which is longer than standard Atlas flex track… Also, due to layout room conditions, soldering joiners is not an option. My favorite trick is to move the sliding rail and stagger the joints, then assure that the flex is solidly anchored to semirigid roadbed. My `anchor’ of choice is Dap caulk. The roadbed is carved from thin extruded foam.
My worst-case scenario, a `hump’ transition connecting a 2% upgrade to a 2.5% downgrade through a transition from tangent to 670mm radius curve, has been in service for close to five years with no issues.and no derailments.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with trackwork as bulletproof as I can make it)