Another vote for cheap latex or silicone chalk and cork roadbed. The stuff I buy is about $1.50 or so a tube and goes a long way. It has also allowed me to make several track plan changes and adjustments without damaging the track or cork roadbed.
I slid a snap off razor knife under the tracks before lifting them up. The cork I pull up without cutting underneth it first.
Liquid Nails Projects works fairly well. If you use white glue, you may find the track loosens a bit when you soak the ballast prior to glueing. This has happened to me. Since all of my track is soldered, it didn’t move enough to be a problem, and so when the ballast glue dried, it was a very solid mass.
Many folks seem to seek solutions that allow you to salvage track if you later want to change the arrangement or replace poorly functioning areas. My suggestion in the case of the later is not to progress beyond the tracklaying stage in a given area until everything works flawlessly. I worry about laying track “semi-permanently,” because it seems to me that if it’s relatively easy to remove the track when you want to, it’ll be relatively easy for it to shift or kink when you don’t. I’ve heard bad things about the AMI roadbed. I use Woodland Scenics track bed, but in retrospect, I would have used cork on the curves (the shims I use for superelevation tend to sink into the soft track bed and loose some of their bank).
Dave
I have actually used white glue and it worked well for me.
Stephen