We are adding a 130 foot turntable to our club layout and the basic setup was provided by another member, mostly preassembled. The pit is in and painted. The 11 stall tracks are in and wired up and so we are working on the turntable bridge.
The bridge is 90% assembled needing just placement, installing the center electrical harp and wiring and making sure it rotates correctly. However, several of the extended ties that will be used to support the walkways have broken and I get to replace them. The original construction was 3/32" square ties glued to the bridge frame.
In starting to remove the broken ties, I remarked to another club member that the track on the bridge was pretty wobbly looking. We guaged it and found that while close, the wobble section was a problem. Instead of attempting to correct the wobble, we removed all the rail and will replace it. So, after fixing the ties, I get to lay rail by hand!!?!?
Any hints from the Forum members on the best way to do this. I have a slim, basswood bridge about 18 inches long and 2 inches wide with ties laid down and needing rail. How do I do this without damaging the piece? Hand laid rail? With THOSE tiny nails? Ideas on how to keep the bridge upright while working on the rail would be appreciated. Thanks.
I built a Diamond Scale turntable and used Goo to hold the rails in place.
If you do decide to use spikes, I’d recommend predrilling the holes to avoid splitting the ties.
Remember that it’s extremely critical to get the track centered. Otherwise, when you turn the bridge around 180 degrees, you can end up with a significant mismatch. My TT bridge was a little less than perfect. Fortunately, I used the New York Railway Supply drive. This allows you to designate each end of the TT separately, then you can program it to take account of these small differences and still get it to line up correctly to the slightly different ends.
I second using Walther Goo and then using tiny spikes, predrilling to minimize splitting… I did this on my 34" bridge and it worked fine. it is time consuming but it looks gorgeous when done… Show us some pic’s when you are done, man…
Brian
I think its Model Engineering who makes a really nice flex track with bridge ties instead of the regular track ties. It looks qite nice by itsel and a little weathering will really set it off. The extended tie will be a problem though.
Yes, Micro Engineering supplies the needed sections of bridge track with their bridge kits.
For this case, if there are no fake plastic spike heads that are meant to contain the rails that are slid into them from one end, you’ll have to use a scribe or something and a straight edge and scribe a mark for the inside edges of each rail piece when they are in gauge on the ties.
Then, one rail section at a time, use White Glue in small dabs here and there under the rail foot and line it up when it is inverted and ready to be placed. Press the one rail home and make a quick adjustment if you must.
Do the same for the other rail, and both of them should be ready for use within an hour. Test with a rail car to ensure the gauge is correct along the bridge’s length, and also rotate the bridge to meet tracks on each side of the pit to ensure the rails will align usefully.
I just finished laying rail on my turntable and had very good luck using ACC cement. Hold the rail in place with a track gauger nd the glue will set in about 15 seconds. Gives a good, long lasting bond.
Wow…good suggestions all. Thanks for the information.
I have gotten all of the bridge ties that were broken replaced and “respaced” the ties in a few places. Rail comes next. Hopefully photos in a day or two to show our progress.
I just used flex track and then covered it over with HO scale lumber (bass wood strips)
I have other TT pics on that site
Fergie