Well, I can at least answer #2 for you. It sounds like you are just planning on laying track out as you go. It’s best to have a plan drawn out first, especially in your case, because I’m assuming you’re building a fairly large layout. You can also use this plan to figure out your curve radii and things like that. Anyway, after your plan is drawn, then you should lay out your track. Yes, the best way is to start at the location with the most turnouts and go out from there. If you are using flex track, don’t lay it yet. Just draw the center line of where the track will go (make sure it’s straight and that your curves are to the radii you want them). Then, lay down your risers and inclines if you are using them. Then, cover your track area with plaster cloth, or hydrocal-soaked towels, or whatever you plan on using. If you’re using a stiff roadbed, such as cork or homasote, lay that down and then your track. If you’re using a flexible roadbed, such as Woodland Scenics Track-Bed, it’s best to lay your track down again, draw around it again (centerline for flex-track), remove it, lay the roadbed, then lay the track down again.
That’s the way I would do it, but there’s probably more stratagies to do it. But to directly answer your question, yes, it’s usually best to start where most of the turnouts are.
Rough out the plan, then transfer it full size to the area you are building on. You mentioned 1 to 3 pieces of track between switches so it sounds as though you are using sectional track. If that is correct, then your track radius is predetermined, but you still need to lay out the plan on the board.
Next, start with the most complex switching section, you need to see if everything fits as drawn. If there is an issue, it usually comes in at the switches. From there, you move out on the mainline, completing spurs last.
I guess I did not make myself clear. Sorry about that. I have a cad generated plan. My question about butting turnouts togeother was is it better to butt turnouts or put 1 to three inches of track between trunouts for wiring etc. I was concerned about fitting flex track between turnouts when using rail jointers. I assume you locate your turnouts but do not fasten down. Other words lay track in progression from one turn out to another. Just wanting to avoid any pittfalls if possible. Thanks yo yhose who responded.
The cad turnouts MAY have a fudge factor of 1" on all ends. The use a a short piece of track may be trquired to clear the throwbar on some ladders. I bought a bunch of Atlas code 83 assortments for just such an event.
I’ve never had a CAD plan work out exactly on the layout because of the grades involved. It seems like I always need some of the assorted length track pieces. However, I have six turnouts in a row in my storage yard with no track between them. The ballast holds them in place without nails. [I always pull the nails after ballasting track anyway.]
oon my stagging and in my yards I layed the track on the foam. Only after looking at photos did i realize the yard track are not lifted as mains are. I have heard of people using n scale road bed on ho yards.
i forgot…
if you are using rail jointers i would say. (im kind new at this but im laying track now)
to start in one spot and go from there because if you glue down a turn out and work towards it when it comes down to that last track your going to have a hard time with it because the rail jointers.
That depends on your plans. Generally speaking, no, you do not need to place anything between turn-outs. However, if you have a large number of them ganged together, you may want to connect power feeders to the turnouts themselves, keeping clear of any moving parts, of course. The pre-wired terminal rail-joiners would work well here since you can slide them into/out of place to replace/remove turnouts. It is a good idea to NOT solder anything to a turn-out. You will want to be able to easily remove it for repair or replacement at a later date.
There are many different ways of starting and each one is equally valid. What I would do once I have benchwork and roadbed in place, is to start laying track in areas that are the hardest to reach. This way you won’t risk damaging previously laid tracks. If all areas of your layout are equally accessible, start with track whose location is critical – such as turnouts in yards; bridges; crossovers; etc. – then work outwards from there. As for fitting in the final piece of track, the rail joiners you plan to use can easily slide out of the way to allow the track into place, then slide back to join the pieces together.
Either works. However, if you wi***o be more prototypical, tracks in yards and sidings are often slightly lower than mainline tracks to help prevent cars from rolling onto and fouling the mainline. You can achieve this in two ways: (1) don’t use any roadbed; or (2) use a roadbed with a lower profile.
I agree with Tim. Do the least accessible parts first so that anything you must reach over or sit on to do those parts won’t be in the way to get destroyed by tools, knees, elbows, and feet.
Secondly, figure out what is the most complicated area of track, lay it, and then take turns building the track plan out from it in two directions. That way, when you get close to closing the loop, you can eyeball it and see if you need to adjust a recently laid straight or curve to get it to come nicely together instead of at an odd angle or with an S-curve.
According to some research that I have done comparing cork roadbed and the WS foam for N-scale, they are both listed as 3mm thickness. Have not verified this in person. I have been struggling with which to buy myself. Hope this helps.