Layout Benchwork Legs ?

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

Hi! I’d like a “pro” and “con” opinion on the location of legs on a 4’ x 8’ tabletop layout. Some advocate mounting the legs @ 19" from each end along the long edge of the table. Others say that they would mount the legs about the same distance but more inside and centered on the table. Lastly, I read that it really does not matter. The legs can be placed in each of the four corners. As always, many thanks.

2

Where the legs should be located is a function of the design of the table. Legs for L girders should be located at the 1/5 and 4/5 positions relative to total girder length, at points where they can be screwed to both the L girders and to joists. Then an X-brace and a diagonal brace from leg to L-girder will assure maximum stability.

OTOH, for ordinary box frame construction, substitute header for L-girder. This places the leg right at the table perimeter on the long sides, but 1/5 in from the ends. It also allows the header (rim joist, in deck construction) to be screwed directly to the leg.

The 1/5 in minimizes stress on the girder or rim joist - think cantilever bridge. The only downside would come if you built all of your scenery from foam, then placed The Great Plaster Mountain entirely on the overhanging end - one end only.

Note that 1/5 is a ratio, not a specific dimension. Also, it is somewhat flexible, to adapt for joist location. The joists should drive leg location, not vice-versa.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on steel stud, `C acts like L,’ girder benchwork)

3

According to structural mechanics, you can use smaller (in the vertical dimension) girders if you locate the support points at 20%-25% of the girder length in from the ends. In other words, you might be able to use 1x3 instead of 1x4 L-girders on an 8ft long table if you support them 19"-24" in from the end instead of at the corners. Westcott’s book on model railroad benchwork has a table that shows the girder sizes for distances between support points.

Another consideration is foot room. If you notice, your kitchen cabinets and counters have a 6" or so toe space underneath them so you can comfortably stand up against them. This enables you to have your toes extend underneath the layout, allows you to effectively have a narrower aisle, and results in less bumping of the legs with your feet. Compare to your wall where there is no such inset; you can’t stand as close to the wall comfortably.

Since we tend to locate our track close to the edge of the layout, having the legs moved in makes for easier access to the underside of the layout directly underneath the track. Switch machine installation and wiring is easier if the legs are not out at the corners.

The only good reason for having legs near the edge is the extra stability of a wide stance for narrow layouts/tables.

my thoughts, your choices

Fred W

4

Or if you want purty legs you can do this:

!(http://www.trainweb.org/silversanjuan/jalbum/Pretty legs!.JPG)

[8-|]

5

I like a more manly leg. And don’t ask to see anything else![(-D]

Brent[C):-)]

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'em ‘ere aint goin’ nowhere!

Nice.

7

Thanks, guys, for your insight and the pictures. You always come through! I’ll keep reading. Thanks, again.

8

Great. Now I have to have “purty” legs too. lol

9

For my layout, I used Sievers benchwork, using two pairs of legs on the straight sections and one pair on each corner section since the corner sections were also supported by two straight sections. Each pair of legs has a cross member that connects them, providing stability and also allowing me to lay a shelf board between the pairs of legs on each section.

Kevin

10

[C):-)]

Stair balusters, cut off on one end. From Home Depot, I think.

That was when the layout was in the family room. Now that it will have it’s own room I will probably use something like an L-girder. But still well finished, I hope.

11

Brent,

Not only are your legs beautiful but I’m jealous of your cleanliness as well. My floor has become a haven for all kinds of stuff resulting in an unsightly mess.

-Paul

12

I make my legs in an “L” shape using 1x4’s. On the end that will be the bottom, I glue and screw a 6-8" length of 2x2". Then I drill a hole in the end and tap a tee-nut into the hole. I then insert 3" 1/4-20 carriage bolts into the nut. Basement floors are rarely flat (they tend to slope to where the drain or sump pump is located). The tee-nuts and bolts help keep things level.

If you look at the base of the leg on the left side, you can see the 2x2 in the inside corner of the leg.

This wasn’t actually installed this way. It was just a picture to show what the adjusters look like.

13

If you used 1x4’s for a grid/box then the corners are fine.

If you use 1x3’s (which I wouldn’t) then a foot from the end might be better. If you use 3 or 4 foot long wood diagonal braces then at the ends will probably work.

I have never found it necessary to recess legs for toe space as the legs take up relatively little space along the front. On a tabletop you usually aren’t standing at the corner. Also you can always shift a your own leg a little to avoid it.

Attach them with screws and no glue. You can make an extra leg later and use it to move them if desired.

Enjoy

Paul

14

i’m still reading. Thanks to all.

15

Right on target – For the legs if you use 1"x4" for the the grid/box. Suggest making each leg out of two 1"x4" pieces in an “L-Shape” – Again only using screws – Top corners will be quite (and surprisingly) strong after screwing each leg top-side at the box/grid corners.

CR&T’s (soon N Scale 2-level free-standing benchwork) has a U-Shaped cockpit – With outer dimensions of apx. 5’x9’x5’ – Each with a 1"x4" L-Shaped leg on each of (3) inner corners + each of (7) outer corners. Benchwork backside has a 1’x4’ (matching room walls) notch-back with additional leg-support at 9’ midpoint. Note: CR&T’s layout footprint is in essence a slight variation of your 4’x8’ layout space.

16

Now if you combine all of the tips on this board you will have a very strong as well as stable support structure for your trains. Also one is not limited to only 4 legs for a given table size. The shorter the span the less flex and sagging will happen over time.

The only issue not addressed and it is off topic a bit was to use a good wood sealer on all of the wood to minimize expansion and contraction due to seasonal humidity and temperature changes.

17

My [I]

I prefer to rip my table frame material out of a good grade of 3/4" plywood. Home Depot has a paint grade that I use, It’s a very stable product, A 3" by 3" leg is very strong resist shaking if you bump the table.

Just my idea.

Lee

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/themes/trc/utility/[IMGhttp://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii34/Yankeeflyer/IMG_0509.jpg[/IMG]:550:0]

18

Thanks Paul.

The people that owned the house previously put in very expensive carpet in this room (and elsewhere) just before we bought. They hadn’t planned on moving. Anyway much to my chagrin, I work on tender hooks in the room. It’s not easy but so far so good in keeping it clean.

They could have picked a better colour though. That pink does not go well with my manly legs.[+o(]

Brent

19

I utilized 1x4 cross bracing every 2 feet for my largest 3.5 x 8 section, and 2x2 legs… 6 legs in all with supports in 90 degree intervals at 45 degrees to the perpendicular. Go ahead, jump on it. :slight_smile:

20

Really appreciate your replies and pictures. Thanks to all.