I’m trying to design a HO scale train layout in an attic that is 31’ X 12’.(31’ is the length of the house.) Every layout that I read in MR is set up in a basement or other buildings. My problem is the walls of my attic comes up to 47" high then come up at a sharp angle for the peak of the roof. The height of the room is only 6’ high so I’ll do alot of head bumping while building. My ideal construction is of Kansas City Southern Kenoch yard in KC going “south” to Neosho, MO. Any advice would be greatfully heplful. I’ve thought about a helix at each end and having a double deck about 1’ wide @ eye level. Also design a nice functonal engine yard with hidden staging under the main layout.
That would work. I’d also get a couple of chairs with good rollers and build it at a height that matches those since you have headroom issues. To work under the layout you might think about getting a creeper like auto mechanics use.
One last thing. You might get a better response on the “layouts and layout building” section of the forum.
Dating myself terribly - Bill McClanahan’s Texas and Rio Grande Western layout was in his attic. You had to watch the edge of the benchwork as you came up the stairs (another headroom issue!)
John Armstrong published at least one attic layout in Model Railroader. The key issue was the triangular cross section, which decreased the useful width of the space as height rose.
If you build your main level at 40 to 42 inches above floor level, you can put hidden staging or ‘sneakback’ tracks along the wall behind your scenery and have enough height for rolling stock plus the 0-5-0 if necessary. Just keep the turnouts accessible and include rerailers in the hidden track.
I don tknow if youve already started. But I would almost be tempted to go with N scale due to the spack problems… everything is smaller therefore you have more room to work with. But thats just a personal preference. I work out of y basement. Anyone who has been in the military and lived in military base housing knows what i mean. Im looking into modeling the Montana Rail Link, being a rather large Class !! regional, Nscale is my best bet. But HO is the way to go for most people.
Is your attic set up as an attic (with floor and stuff) or is it just the bottom of the roof and the ceiling of the floor below? Modern house construction often uses studs that are adequate to hold up a ceiling but not solid if you plan to walk on them a lot. If there’s no floor in the attic already, consider getting a professional opinion on whether it’s sturdy enough for you.
Whether it’s a proper attic or just a roof space you will need to look at temperature control. Both (can) get very hot… which isn’t good for layouts or models… but you do get a free sauna whenever you go up there in summer…
If it’s an attic that hasn’t been used much do all you can to clean it and get it dust free before you start… boring but it will pay off. Painting it now will also save you doing it again (round/over your layout) for many years.
If it’s a roof space make it as much like a proper attic as you can. That advice about the load bearing ability is essential. Also, if it isn’t floored put a floor in everywhere you will walk AND everywhere you will want to move under a layout… saves dropping through to visit whoever’s down below… if you don’t board you WILL do it!
Have fun.
You will probably get a greater variety of responses if you ask your question on the form about layout building or even the general topics forum. You have started this thread under “Prototype Information for Model Railroaders”, but your question does not ask about prototype information. By the way, the KCS yard you’re referring to is spelled Knoche and pronounced kuh-NO-key. I live not far from Knoche yard and I agree it would make a good subject of a model railroad. Good luck on your project.
If you ever decide to add any fiberglas insulation between the rafters, make sure that you first use “Rafter Mate” or equivalent styrofoam baffle vents. This allows for air circulation under the roof sheathing and stop any possible mold and damage to the roof plywood. If you carry this all the way down the rafter to the wall/ top plate make sure that you have adaquate soffit venting. If you have a ridge vent, you can add a small flat ceiling section just under the ridge or at the collar ties.
Insulating and having proper attic venting can make the temperature/ humidity swings of the attic space a bit more livable for you and you layout.
A thermostatically controlled exhaust fan would be a must or you will never be able to use the space during the summer months. Careful planning can make the attic somewhat comfortable and safe for your trains and the house. Good luck w/ your space, if you have any questions, contact a local contractor before jumping into the project.
Bob K.