Im seeing alot of plans your throwing out there that I like. But my space just go a little bigger. I got a suprise when I came home of a remodeled room that freed up on entire corner. So I went ahead and mounted both of my boards to the walls. The 5x2 is butted up against the corner and the 5x18in is running along the other wall right up against it. I would post pictures of what it looks like but Im not sure how to add them to a message. Any help? After I find out how to do that I will take a few pics of it and a couple of the engines I plan on running. I am modeling CSX, Chessie, B&O. So I have more room to work with. Leads to a couple questions. How do you guys measure the radius of your turns? I want to make it at least a 24in radius. Any ideas.
Congratulations on getting more layout space!
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if center of circle is on the board - 24" long string, thumbtack to center of circle, pull string taut and hold a pencil at the other end as you make a curve.
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if center of circle is off the board - 24" long stick/piece of lumber/yard stick - fasten one end on top of something that will stay put at center of circle, pencil at other end, swivel around center to draw curve.
Basically the same idea as using a compass in math class at school - one end fixed, pencil at other end
Smile,
Stein
Hi Kevinohio,
If you do not like the “off the bench” centre method use a sheet of cardboard.
Draw half a circle on it, cut it out, and use it as a template.
Paul
So I think I have it narrowed down to making the layout in code 100. I have more of that type of track than code 83. Granted I have like 9 code 83 turnouts/wyes, and only 3 or 4 code 100 turnouts, I have an abundance of flextrack and alot of sectional pieces. So here are some pictures of the setup and a few of the engines im leaning towards running.
Im leaning more towards the B&O Engine. I like the CSX, but it is huge and would probably require a larger radius to operate. That and it wouldnt look good on such a small layout. I really like the Steam engine, it is also B&O(And a suprising gift from my brother). I want to model something that has to do with coal hoppers. I have several now and am always looking to pick up more. Also Im trying to find a B&O switcher. So heres a few questions
What sites are available that has a couple layouts I can look at?
Im going to be mixing up several code 73 turnouts/wyes with code 100. I will be using code 100/83 transition joiners and shims, Is this a good idea for an inexperienced modeler?
What is better to use on a layout of this size, Sectional or Flex track?
Thanks all.
This layout is made up of two five foot long sections around a corner. Although it may not be what you are looking for in terms of industries, it will give you a rough idea of how much “stuff” can fit.
You can read more here.
There are a few shelf switching track plans in my layout design gallery that might be adapted to fit by bending them around the corner.
Flextrack will usually allow you to do more in a given space because you are not limited to the specific geometries of sectional track.
Hi KevinOhio,
I found this one, the FAT CITY & EAST RAIL, with a 24" radius on the main and #4 switches, except the #6 crossover; all Atlas CL.
Paul
BTW, the layout by Byron Henderson is a very good one, you can add a cassette to one of the mains.
Paul,
I really like this one that you found. It gives me what I want which is both ends can be extended. I plan on this being a corner piece of a master layout. My one question would be this. How much would using #6 turnouts mess it up? I have several turnouts, but I think the majority of them are 6’s. They just dont say on the bottom(just manufacturer). Plus I have a mixture of them, Shinohara, Peco, Atlas. Some are code 83, and a few 100’s. I think I might take a chance and use them both. I have 100/83 transitional joiners, and I can shim it too. Question about that is do I shim the whole turnout, or just under the turnout at the joiners?
Hi Kevin,
between the cassette and the throat are about 8" you can use to replace at least two #4’s. The #4 switches leading to the bicycle factory and the oildealer are very difficult to replace; the track into Fat City Bicycle will be 8 inches shorter. You can shift the road a bit to the right and make the buildings less deep; not my choice.
I wouldn’t spare money on the tracks though; code 100 track is very heavy for this kind of branchline. I would even use code 55 or 70 track on the spurs.
You have to shim only under the joiners, hmmmmmmm,
depends how you look at it. Just a couple of decreasing shims under the code 83 switch are enough.
I loved the pictures of Fat City; a great little gem. The road in front of the bicycle works is a nice place to add Lance Mindheim’s fusees.
It’s your layout, you’r the boss, so you have to make the choices. Have fun doing so. You can lay out the track on your shelf and with some boxes or cardboard buildings you can set up the whole show, just try it out. If I had accepted a configuration I didn’t liked much, because of stuff I allready possessed, I would never been able to really like that scene. But that’s just me.
Paul
BTW, try out Byron Henderson’s design too. It is a very good plan. The beauty of old snaptrack are the easy adjustments you can make. And when you are happy with the results start the build. ( imho with flex track and light rail)
Where would I find Byron Hendersons design at?
Hi Kevin,
Byron Henderson = Cuyama
He posted the trackplan 3 days ago, in your thread.
You missed the copyright at the bottom of the plan.
BTW I found a note about my plan. The spur to the oil dealer could be done by a curved switch, left of the road overpass. This would ease the construction of one of the bridge abutments, at the same time gain length for the track to the bicycle plant, part of it can be used for a #6 switch. You will have to try it out, on a small layout like yours every inch counts.
Paul