How bad/crazy/stupid is my idea of putting a passing siding on an incline?
I know it sounds dumb at first, but would not some lines have been limited to a narrow bridge at one point and have passing sidings before and after?
Basically, I screwed up, and underestimated my operational enjoyment with a single main on about 70% around the circumference of the layout. I know cars will tend to roll, but I’d like a passing siding, so they would be connected to a loco.
Furthermore, am I wrong to think uphill trains have the priority? (I live in the flats of Indiana so I really don’t know)
“OR” could I have a siding for a “helper” engine??? would that be so corny?
The U&D had passing sidings or helper pockets on inclines. No big deal. You just need a way to hold a train or cars there. Locos should stay on their own. Loose cars need some help. Several methods have been discussed on these forums - tortoise wire, brush filaments, or magnets for example.
I have three sidings, with the longest on a 3% grade. I have no choice but to hold back cars, either by coupler to the engine or with some other chock, wedge, stave…anthything that will do the job. Often, just because it is quickest, simply derailing the downhill axle on the lowest car is sufficient, although not all the time…if there isn’t a prominent tie end on which to stop one wheel, they’ll often roll anyway. I don’t, of course, prefer this method, but use it as a functional expedient when necessary.
If this siding is a passing siding and your operations will not include any switching, I do not see a problem. In fact it seems hard to design a tarck plan with changes in elevation that do not have passing sidings along an incline/decline. Jamie
Wheeler, I am not sure what the name of it is, the barrier that used to keep cars from rolling off the end of a spur. You could install a coulper on the barrier to hold the cars in places.
If I had to, I put the engines on the downhill end and keep the cars from running away.
My Kato track bumper will hold a cut of cars on the downgrade siding, but need uber engines to pull em out. This aint the place for wussy plastic couplers neither.
But my rule is all cars must stay where they are without assistance so flat means flat. MAYBE they are left on a slight downgrade towards a spur bumper to protect the mainline. Kato track makers really should consider making derails on thier short 60mm sections. Or better yet, I learn how to model one with a bit of scrap rail, switch stand and a bit of plastic and paint.
If there’s at least two cars that need to have their brakes applied, I just put a bamboo skewer (uncoupler device) stright down in between the two cars and put the point between two ties. the cars then roll about 1/4 inch, then the stick is wedged between the cars, with it’s point in the ties… will hold that card there for a good long while.
If you have foam or cork roadbed, a hatpin is your friend. Get one about 3" long with a bead on the end - easy to place, easy to remove - and if the bead is blue, it’s even prototypical! (Blue flags for cars that aren’t supposed to be moved.)