Problem #1 is always depth of field. I use an old 35 mm single lens reflex with a 50 mm normal lens and closeup lenses to get really close to the model. Viewing the scene thru the view finder, only a very very tiny part of the pix is in focus, lots and lots of stuff, foreground, background is fuzzy. I stop the lens down as far as it will go (f22 on my camera) and use a long exposure time. No one can hand hold an exposure longer than 1/60 without blurring, so I use a tiny little short tripod, and a cable release, so I can trip the shutter with out jarring the camera. I try to compose the shot with a back ground as close to the train, and with as little foreground stuff as I can, to make it easier for the lens to get most of the picture into focus.
Problem #2 is lighting. I use a “key” light to form good shadows and give some contrast to the image. Then I use a fill light to lighten up the dark places so they are visible rather than coming out all black. Be really really careful not to have TWO shadows showing in the pix. The fill light wants a diffuser, or a white reflector to break it up so it doesn’t make shadows. Look carefully at the scene before tripping the shutter. If you can see a hint of double shadows, be certain that the finished photo will have horrible double shadows.
The other lighting problem is color balance. Color film is very sensitive to the color of the light. You can get film balanced for sunlight and for “tungsten” (incandecent) light. If you use fluorescent lights, expect odd looking color.
Then there is composition. The pix wants a center of interest, usually a train. Then you have to deal with the background. Make sure the background doesn’t detract from the center of interest. The best backgrounds are plain and do