I have a 6x8 foot space that I’ve been wanting to use for my HO scale layout. Does anyone have any suggestions for a track plan for this space? Any suggestions would be appreciated
Hi Kevinkru
There is a track plan database at the top of this page with more than 500 designs in it. You can filter the designs by square footage.
Click on ‘How To’ in the black bar towards the top of the page and select ‘Track Plan Database’.
You might find some inspiration there.
Otherwise, it would help us if you told us what type of trains you want to run, what features you would like in your layout, what era, etc.
Also, when you say 6x8 is that the total room space available or is that just the layout surface itself?
Dave
One caution if you have a 6x8 table. Reaching over 30 inches is concidered a long reach and damage to scenery is likely. If you happen to be short with short arms. even less distance can be a problem. A long armed basketball center can probably reach without too much problem. An other factor is the layout height effects your reach in ability. Check your reach before you do much planning for scenic elements in the center of your layout.
Have fun,
Richard
i will probably have a view divider in the middle. thank u so much
i was thinking of 40s to 50s and coal railroading maybe Virginian or western Maryland.
Gidday Kevinkru, [#welcome] to the forum.
Don’t know if you are aware of the “Model Railroader” recent Virginian project.
Here’s a link to a current “work in progress” thread.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/202934.aspx
Have Fun.
Cheers, the Bear.
Hi,
a 8x6 layoutspace with a scenic divider in the middel will need a much larger room space, like 11x11.
Other footprints then a solid table are worth to explore. Like Byron Henderson (Cuyama) shows on his amazing webside.
You probably have to be close to the action to help cars (un)coupling. IMHO seeing my trains from aside is an asset, opposed to a helicopter view. Layout height is an important design decision. Like the minimum mainline radius; since it is limiting the kind of cars or engines you can operate.
Some good books are Track Planning for Realistic Operation and 102 Realistic Track Plans. The latter contains more information then track plans alone
Wish you luck
Paul
The MR track plan database has no HO scale layout for that size.
6 by 8 is an “unlucky” size - it does not off much more usable room than a 4 by 8 - if you use those extra 2 ft. for a larger radius, there is that extra length missing in the “straight” bit. A 6 by 8 also has a severe reach issue, enlarging the footprint you need to what Paul has stated.
Check your room, make a drawing of it, and post it here. There are folks around who can help you finding the right layout size for your space.
Maybe go with a modular setup focused on switching operation. This lets you start building something that is fun while trying some new things and have real future expansion ability.
Plan your layout on paper first. Get real track measurements and number of turnouts. Then plan for people, giving room for rail to vehicle transfer points with rail side business buildings.
Don’t buy too much equipment until you have a plan of what you think you need. Jump in and build it. Have some fun. You can always expand the modular layout in several directions.
Good Luck
With all due respect to the OP who joined the Trains Forum on Sunday and is probably a newbie based upon his question, a question such as this will wind up going nowhere.
Some replies often provide elaborate drawings of track plans that never get implemented by the one asking the question.
Some replies ask for more information as if that will help to draw an acceptable plan, but it never does.
When I got into HO scale modeling 10 years ago, I had a similar situation to the OP except that my available space was bigger.
I did what the OP should do. Build a 6’ x 8’ plywood table with 2’ x 4’ legs and start laying track. Build an oval. You can easily get 32" radius curves in such a layout. Power it up. See if you like it.
If you get bored, add some turnouts and connect some track inside the oval. See if you like it. See if you can reach it.
Cut a hole in the center of the plywood surface, maybe 24" x 30". Crawl in there and operate trains from inside the layout. See if that “pop up” access hole fits your needs and desires.
Build some structures.
Do some landscaping.
Add ballast.
See if you get bored operating just one train at a time. Consider block controls in DC, or consider converting to DCC.
Then, when you come back to the forum with questions, you can be a lot more specific.
Now, I am not trying to send you away. We will be here to answer your questions along the way.
But, don’t wait for others to build your layout. Start laying track. Now.
Rich
Bravo, Rich - you hit the nail on the head. The only thing I´d suggest is to go for a standard 4 by 8 shape, if only to save money.
Ulrich, I would second that suggestion all the way to the lumber yard. [Y]
Rich
Hi gentlemen,
I do “strongly disagree” with Ulrich and Rich. An 8x4 limits the possible minimum radius. This is a non-issue when you dream about switching with short engines and older and shorter cars (less then 50 ft long). However when dreaming about long passenger cars or modern freight (up to 90 ft) or long huge steamers your minimum radius will have to be in the 30" to 36" range. You will need much longer turnouts as well; #6’s in stead of #4"s; eating even more length.
This also means as Ulrich stated, you will lack length to build a sufficiently long station. In the end the 8 ft length of your layout will be to short when using long cars or coaches. I asked the question before, is your layout 8x6 or is that the maximum possible floor space? Thinking hard once more about your wishes and the appropriate scale before going to the lumberyard might be a good investment.
I do like the Virginian project, an 8x4 too, from last year. The chosen method of construction of the benchwork allows you to add grades and rivers to your plan. At the very same time the basic oval with the little yard could be a great “flat-only” start. Just like adding a wing for staging purposes later.
If larger radii and sleeker turnouts are needed after all you could google The Hog layout and its
I agree very much with what Rich wrote, but I would add that defining your space properly makes a big difference in the satisfaction of a layout.
If you have a 6x8 table with a divider, that implies that you have access to all four sides, or at least 2 feet of open space on each side. Which means the total amount of space devoted to the layout (and when operating it) is 10 x 16.
Does the room in which you are placing the layout allow you to change the positive space to negative space and visa vera? Are there no shared aisle ways with other parts of the room?
Meaning…think of the 6x8 table as the “open” space, with 2 feet of benchwork surrounding it. If you can swap those spaces, the 10 x 16 layout with a 6 x 8 open area in the center is a MUCH more satisfying surface area to work with.
Once you know for sure what the shape of the benchwork will be, then I think proceeding in the manner Rich suggested is the way to go.
i might go with a 5’ by 8’ using two 4’ by 5’ sections together. im thinking of modifying the virginian plan for wider curves and bigger turnouts. thanks for all your replies
hi,
like Ulrich told you earlier on, with longer turnouts and larger radii, you will need more length too.
Paul
Just to demonstrate that a 6 by 8 won´t give you much gain, unless you extend the length as well:
OP states he has a 6x8 space for a layout. Is this space part of a larger area, such as a corner of a room or what? Having a drawing, or at least some idea, of the location of the space would be helpful. This would give us some idea of clearances, or lack of, around the 6x8 space.