By chance, are any of you in the planning stage.
If so, or if you were, how about sharing with us some lessons learned?
Here are a couple of mine (I’m getting ready for my next layout soon):
Also, and hopefully, my scenery will be improved this time around.
Dave Vergun
Oh, 2 more I forgot.
Make the layout high enough so my beagle can’t chew up my trains–at least the plastic ones.
Invite more single women over to my basement layout, which now has enough room for a pool table, refrigerator with beer, and a snuggly sofa with widescreen TV.
I just did mine, I am wiring now.
Some more thoughts to add to FJ’s good advice:
-Run the trains at least a week before laying roadbed/screwing down, etc. Actually a month or more is probably better if you are new to the hobby. You will want to change things.
-I think its best to do the ballast late than early. It gets in the way and is a mess if you change anything.
Keep in mind where your control setup will be and design accordingly.
I think modular approach works best, ie. the 1st 4x8 will be mountainous, the 2nd a town, 3rd industry, etc. Do one at a time, at least track and wiring.
Dont try and pack too much in. Leave space for future. Plus, spread out looks better. Most the layouts I see have way too much crap in too small a space, IMO.
Lastly, I plan to finish my basement off as well to enjoy the other things FJ mentioned!
Measure twice, cut once.
Color-code your wiring and use barrier strips.
Test out a wired section/accessory before wiring the next section.
Don’t work on the layour when you’re tired - it’s a hobby, not a job.
Don’t be afraid to start over/ redo something you don’t like.
Having built umpteen three rail layouts…a few contributes.
draw your track plan full sized on the floor with tape etc…and plan your construction, “L” girders etc… with your track plan in mind. Nothing is worse than finding you have to relocate an “L” girder because you want a switch machine under the table at the same spot.
speaking of track plans…consider less is more. I bought into the concept after seeing an O scale layout in Model Railroader in which scenery overwhelemed the trains. I wouldn’t say scenery overwhelms my trains but its pretty equal to them.
color code your wiring. I use black for common. Red for power leads to track…and white for power leads to lights. I also built distribution panels with the color coded wires numbered for each block and turnout location. It sure makes troubleshooting a lot easier.
. If you’re a conventional operator as I am…consider more than one control panel. I have two smaller control panels mounted on the facia of my around the walls layout. It reduces long wiring runs for turnouts and blocks.
John Harding
Thanks for those good add-ons.
Not a magic number but I’ll try for a #8.
Don’t do any banging or sawing after 10 p.m. I got the neighbor pissed when I did this. I live in a single house and didn’t realize that noise carries. his wife sent him over at around 11 p.m. to ask me to knock it off.
His wife also made him build a high fence to block their view of me, I suppose, because I used to be outside spraying weeds for my layout and they thought I was a kook.
Also, their dog bit my dog on the nose thru the fence when she was a puppy but now that she’s gotten bigger, she returned the favor.
Anyway, they recently moved away and new neighbors will now have to put up with me banging out another layout.
I’ll invite them over when it’s finished.
Well, I’m leaving to catch my VRE train home. See you all on Monday.
Dave,
I bet Commodore Vanderbilt had problems with his neighbors too! [;)]
Hi All,
All above is good points, but I will take exception to the 027 switches. I do use and like the K-line ones and would recommend them. I have replaced the Lionel with K-line low profile ones.
tom
I also use K-line 027 switches(along with gargraves) and highly recommend them. I’ve had the same 6 switches on my layout for over 8 years without any problems.
I recently took down a layout that was about 50% complete- able to run trains. After lots of reading I decided that I wanted a layout that would allow for more interesting operation than just circles. Another lesson learned was to make the grades less severe. Just because magna-traction works doesn’t mean the train has to go up the mountain like a goat. I also have decided to pack up the tubular track and switches and go with Ross switches and track for the realistic look. My big fear is scenery. Some of the layouts in CTT are my motivation.
I did a lot of planning for my layout including laying paper templates of switches on the floor prior to drawing a scale plan. On the plan, I put the joists where they wouldn’t interfere with the tortoise switch machines.
One thing that I didn’t consider was overhead lighting. I recently added some track lights with a dimmer, but I can’t position them without casting some shadows of bridges on the backdrop. The HO guys do it right by installing lights early that shine down behind valences.
Avoid “duckunders”![:)]
If at all possible…
DESIGN EVERYTHING SO IT WILL BE IN ARMS REACH!!!
or at least accessible so you won’t have to crawl on the layout after all the scenery is done. Things get broke!
Hi All,
“One thing that I didn’t consider was overhead lighting. I recently added some track lights with a dimmer, but I can’t position them without casting some shadows of bridges on the backdrop. The HO guys do it right by installing lights early that shine down behind valences.”
Or even better, being able to reach the light bubs to change them when they burn out.
Remember to also look up once in a while.
tom
The very first thing I’ll do is redo the ceiling, paint the walls, And put some good carpeting on the floor. The next layout will be around the wall too, maybe 4 ft wide at the most with 072 "turn arounds"at each end. One of these turnaround tables would have a turntable. DCS will make things easier too, because everytthing can be linked together. Chuck (FJ and G, don’t I know you from somewhere?)
My layout is mostly old Marx, so I have to use 027 Marx switches
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