If you have working signals which brand do you use OR due you sctrach build?
Reason for question, I bought (1) model power signal as a pattern to build more. $15.95 is a little much when looking for about 135 to 150 units.
I have looked and not found a book that has plans for building signals. Looking for the CNJ OR what was used in the coal region up around Ashley and Solomons Gap Pa. Have seen some pictures with PRR type and Standard type units. I can get the PRR info from them, no problem, CNJ in that area is amother question.
Word to the wise, pick a prototype and model it, this Hald free lance and Half Prototype is driving my nutter than I was. [banghead]
I scratch build mine from styrene tubing and IHC signal heads. Because of their small size, and very bright output, I used the more expesive Minitronics 1.5mm LEDS, rather then regular 2 or 3mm ones. While not the most detailed, they cost under $5 each.
All-around nice photo, Nick. I like the relay box, too. Did you scratch that one? Do you have any construction photos that show how you mounted the leads in the back of the signals?
Another option for signal lights, particularly those used as turnout indicators, is to get dual-color red/green LEDs. With these, you only need a single-target, single-lamp head. In bulk, these LEDs are dirt-cheap. They are also great for control panel indicator lights, so for a few cents more you can wire both in parallel. (Sorry, the wire is literally going to cost more than the LEDs, here.)
I’ve built a couple of signals using these LEDs. I used a bit of round plastic coffee stirrer for the lamp hood.
How big is your layout? That’s a heck of a lot of signals! Especially for a US RR.
Are you looking at switch indicators as well as line signals?
I do find that getting good info on US signalling practice is very difficult but it sounds to me that you are making life hard for yourself…
If you are semi-freelance and using switch indicators you might cut out all the in-yard units (put your (LED) indicators on the facia or control panel if you want indication for your own use)… then use single aspect heads with bi-colour LEDs for those that reamin at yard entry/exit (and maybe run round routes in the yard). Then you just need to choose a simple signal for your train movements. I think that you will then find that buying good ready-made units will prove worthwhile in time and energy.
Nick, great idea! I am up to my tail in 3 mm bicolor LED’s about 250 I think.
Where did you get the IHC heads? I bought some Model Power dummy units and drillled out the dwargs and put in grain of rice for the ground units. The Bridge that came with it needs HELP but with what I see for you they can be used. Hobby shop sold out the Model Power Reg $9.95 got them for $2.99, bought them all.
Poeple need to see this picture and look how good the above table switch motor looks when time is spent on it. Nice work.
George, we’re using three light (LED’s) head signals from Oregon Rail Supply. We have both pole mounted and cantilever signals.
It’s been quite a while since we bought our signals, but they were reasonably priced, can be configured in many different ways, and are easy to build kits. They offer a pretty good variety of different heads and styles besides the ones we are using so you shoul dbe able to find what you need.
Thank you guys. Glad I could provide some help. Unfortunately, I don’t have any construction photos.
I mounted the LEDs in the heads using 5 minute epoxy. I swirled the LEDs in the epoxy and then pressed them into the heads. After the epoxy set, the result is a very pleasing lens effect.
The Minitronics 1.5mm LEDs have tiny leads. I soldered some 30 gauge wire to the leads at the base of the LEDs, and cut the rest of the lead off. Then, I painted the entire back black to insulate the connections and shoved the wires through a hole in the mast behind the signal head.
I bought the head directly from IHC, http://www.ihc-hobby.com/, when they were on sale for $0.50 a 2 pack. You can also order them from Walthers. The heads will take 2mm LEDs, but need slightly reamed for 3mm ones.
The signal heads that Digitrax sells are just basic circuit boards with LEDs on them, close to N scale. There is a company offering details to glue on them to make them look like a real signal - again in N scale though, they are too small for HO. For HO you need to buy or make your own and connect them to the SE8C connections yourself, it’s not quite as plug ‘n play. They d also sell just the bases, no LEDs, which already have the resistors that are required, you just connect your signals to them and then it is plug n’ play after that
Bi-color LEDs are a wonderful thing. Did you know that there is a way to make them glow yellow? Works best with a square wave AC source, but a three way slide switch with two diodes and a resister should work just fine. Then again, that probably has no prototype just like my life. [|(]
No, the DS52 doesn;t have any feedback inputs. But with everything conencted up, the messages will be seen - I have a coupel of NCE Switch-Its and if I operate them via my DT400, my panel shows the change just as if I operated it from the panel itself. The only way I don;t have feedback is if I hook up local buttons to the Switch-It and operate them that way, then there is no way for the panel to ‘see’ the command since no command is actually sent onthe wires. If you MUST have actual feedback fromt he Tortoise contacts, the cheapest way to add that might be to put together some of Hans DeLoof’s LocoIO boards, each one has 16 inputs (or outputs, you can drive LEDs and stuff with them if you want to) and generates a Loconet message for each input - so one board can monitor 16 turnouts. He was selling them fully assembled, but yikes on the price, the components cost me less than half that, but I
No, the DS52 doesn;t have any feedback inputs. But with everything conencted up, the messages will be seen - I have a coupel of NCE Switch-Its and if I operate them via my DT400, my panel shows the change just as if I operated it from the panel itself. The only way I don;t have feedback is if I hook up local buttons to the Switch-It and operate them that way, then there is no way for the panel to ‘see’ the command since no command is actually sent onthe wires. If you MUST have actual feedback fromt he Tortoise contacts, the cheapest way to add that might be to put together some of Hans DeLoof’s LocoIO boards, each one has 16 inputs (or outputs, you can drive LEDs and stuff with them if you want to) and generates a Loconet message for each input - so one board can monitor 16 turnouts. He was selling them fully assembled, but yikes on the p
