layout wiring

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

I am building my first layout a 2 tiered 5x9. I have my track layed out and am having difficulity with insulated joiners. My upper level is using snap track and my lower is going to be a replica of the NYC subway station . I have used plastic joiners but with little success. Are their any easier applications out there.

Alanbirdman

2

Welcome to the forums.

Could you be a little more specific with your problem. Are you in DC or DCC? Is it that they are not insulating your blocks? Not holding on the rail? A little more information and I think you will get some answers.

Good luck,

3

I won’t use them. They’re big and bulky, and look terrible in my opinion. I would rather drive a single small track nail into a newly drilled hole in the last tie on each side of a small gap. Once you have glued the ballast, and it is hardened, you can remove the nails and you should be all set.

-Crandell

4

I am using DC, My problem is that the soft plastic insulated joiners create a bump in the rail and derail the car wheels. Tried ti file down but to no avail.

Thanks for any info or aid you can provide

Alanbirdman

5

This is my first venture and I figured it is a good way to get my feet wet.

Thanks

Alanbirdman

6

You may not be using the right size insulated joiner for your rail. Either buy a smaller size or snip a little off the piece that sticks up between the rail ends. Scissors, sprue nippers, etc, should work.

Good luck

Paul

7

Thanks Paul

Alanbirdman

8

Or just use electrical joiners and when the track is all nice and laid, go back and cut new gaps just down a ways from the joiner. Fill the gaps with a bit of styrene so the rails can’t work themselves back together.

9

The plastic joiners are much thicker than the standard metal ones. So, you can’t have any ties underneath them, or they will lift up the rails just as you describe. You can clip off the ties beneath the joiners, and then add short ends and center pieces to fill the gaps, but don’t actually go under the joiner.

As long as you’re not trying to join flex track on a curve, though, it is possible to leave a gap with no joiners at all.

By the way, it’s good to see more subway modellers. Let’s see some pictures as you get further along.

10

Thanks Mister B.

I will post picture s of the Subway when it gets a little more photogenic.

Alanbirdman

11

In another thread, I mentioned my trick of removing the last few ties, plowing out a groove to eliminate the bump at the joiner(s) and replacing the ties. Not very practical for sectional track, unfortunately. I have notched the ties (and the little link between them) with the rails in place. Just use a chisel blade in your hobby knife handle - and be gentle.

Another useful trick is to use a fine-tooth file to de-burr every rail joint. Then take a little facet out of the top inside corner of every railhead at the joint. Since I started doing this in the early '70s I have had very few derailments - and all of them have been the result of rolling stock deficiencies.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on flex track and hand-laid specialwork)