Well, I thought I’d plot out some possible track in the Train Room. Nothing etched in granite other than it’s HO.
I’m throwing this on the table for the experts so don’t hesitate to be critical if need be, just be nice (LOL).
Well, I thought I’d plot out some possible track in the Train Room. Nothing etched in granite other than it’s HO.
I’m throwing this on the table for the experts so don’t hesitate to be critical if need be, just be nice (LOL).
That’s a start. A couple of quick impressions.
If you have a return loop at one end of your dogbone main, you probably want one at the other end to make easy reversing in both directions possible.
There’s a LOT of straight track. Even in very flat Illinois, you have considerable wandering from the straightest path between two points by RR. Curves are easily possible to add with this much space to work with.
It’s a really long reach to the corners on the top. Some pop-ups or other access recommended.
How about the south and lower half of the west walls? Can they serve some purpose or must they be dedicated to other uses?
Consider making peninsulas so they angle out and away from the wall, rather than parallel to it.
Great advice! While we’re chatting and I probably could just search it - track code, what’s up with the 70, 83 and 100? Only height of rail or other preference?
TIA,
Nick
There is no yard and there are no sidings. The layout is just a roundy-round. It would quickly get boring, unless you just like watching trains. I’ll admit, there are times when that’s all want to do. But, you should plan for switching.
I’ll agree with the need to have a pair of reverse loops for direct entry by trains running in either direction.
You’ve also got no provision for staging. In a room that size, you should have space for staging, even at the same level as the rest of the layout.
Yea, that’s nominal rail height. Basically the track in smaller code #s is somewhat more fragile, but you shouldn’t abuse your track anyway. Smaller rail does really compliment close up pics, so that’s another consideration; weathering the track make most of the apparent difference disappear. Then there’s an issue rarely at play, but applies in my case. The only commerical HO/HOn3 dual gauge turnouts are Shinohara’s in code 70, so matching them can be a consideration. I use code 70 for most of my HOn3 to match up with the dual gauge track. All standard gauge track is code 83.
Agree with MisterBeasley. You have a large space and a plan that simply follows the edges of the table. You have the capability for double main lines, grades, industrial sidings and a yard. Staging could also fit on the north and east walls. Investigate and read. Your space is a real opportunity, don’t rush into anything. John Armstrong’s Track planning for Realistic Operations, A Kalmbach book, would be an excellent place to start.
Certainly no rush here [:(] Retired but have a Hotrod Shop with two complete builds going and only one employee, me. So, needless to say I’m just in the beginning stages. I am researching many locations to replicate once I begin but for now, just doing my homework and learning the jargon.
I just ordered that book BTW. Research, research, research.
TIA,
Nick
TPRO is a great start to get up to speed on how track serves to make your railroad work.
What it won’t do is help you to figure out what your railroad will be about or the industries and people it will serve. This can be very generic, say logging, mining, or even commuter rail. Or it can be very specific, as in the Monon RR’s stone district in southern Indiana, the Pennsy around Horseshoe Curve, or the C&S Clear Creek narrowgauge line northwest from Denver. Or anything in between. No need to rush into this either, but you do want something that holds your interest so that your inspiration doesn’t run out before your dreaams do.