Are LED’s hooked up the same way as regular light bulbs say for the cars I’m trying to illuminate? Thanks, Jake
No. They’re very different. Do you have the September CTT? Check out my article on page 62 first, then let fly with any questions that you have.
Can I just buy an LED connected to a track roller-pickup or a battery-connection somewhere?
Bob, I read Sept’s issue with your article. Bob, I must say you really know your stuff. I however felt as if I was just transported to a land with a new language, never heard before to human ears! I’m such a visual learner I have a rough time with the written word. After studying this many times over, I think I know what I’m after now, but I’m still not sure. It would be like me trying to explain the moments in building a bamboo fly rod for the stress curves, which I’m sure you would probably get! Anyway, in order to illuminate buildings and train cars. can you give an idea of what might be needed if I’m powering the LED’s from track power and a seperate transformer? I’d like to use the yellowish white light you spoke of in your article. I’ll see what Radio Shack has to offer. Would that work? And what resistor would be necessary? Can I hook them up in a string from one car to the next or one house to the next?
Wouldl this be of any use?
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Buck Puck
The 3021 BuckPuck LED power modules are a line of true current regulated drivers for LEDs. Unlike standard power supplies, which deliver a fixed voltage to the output, the 3021 is designed to vary the output voltage as required to deliver a constant current to the LED(s) reliably and with stability. See data sheets below.
Available as:
- 3021-D-E-0700 with 700mA, External controls
- 3021-D-E-1000 with 1000mA, External Controls
- 3021-D-I-1000 with 1000mA, ON board controls
- See Buck Puck’s data sheets.
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Radio Shack has an assortment for 4.95 if my pricing is current. The simplest way is to get a CR 2032 3 v battery. I use it to test the LED. It will run for a day when connected with tape and will last about a week but will get progressively dim. On the expensive side there is an LED surface mounted car lighting kit on the market. I think it was on Ebay. If you use a magnet with the battery it’s called a throwie. It can be seen on You tube.
I think these might be the ticket!
# AC/DC Pre-wired LEDsReady to Connect to Model Train and Miniatures AC/DCC/DC power sources |
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Nice find. Radio Shack sells mostly Red Green and Yellow.in 3 and 5 mm. White is more expensive. Warm white is hard to find unless ordered… 1.8 mm is nice and small and would have to be ordered. These guys are prewired with a diode and a resistor.
Here’s my source for incandescent-looking LEDs:
http://www.richmondcontrols.com/
That “Buck Puck” is definitely not what you want. Most LEDs are rated for about 20 milliamperes. Those things are for high-powered LEDs used for lighting.
Bob, what do you think of the pre wired deals? Dub, ever try them? Jake
That seems like a reasonable way to go in principle. However, a comment in the advertising blurb makes me wonder whether they know what they’re doing: They say that “super bright LEDs only draw 20 milliamps of power!” Milliamperes are units of current, not power. And they don’t point out that the current will vary with the voltage used. Maybe the designer had no input into the ad.
I would not “[c]onsider cool white LEDs for newer diesel locomotive headlights.” Diesels use the same yellowish incandescent lamps as steam locomotives. Perhaps later into the century, bluish headlights will become prototypical.
I have not bought prewired. Anyways they are made in China so english usage is understandable. (Bob’s concern). I am self taught because I wanted to use LEDs and have read a variety of sources. Application is everything. The prewired will work but when placed in an engine you throttle it. The voltage spikes with some engines have burned out mine.I still can’t get an LED in a HO engine. It could be my soldering. Heat is an issue with LEDs and diodes. Ebay does offer them, some with resistor to match your usage 12v or 18v. Basiclly they have a 750 ohm resistor with a 1n4001 diode, The resistor is on the positive end and the diode on the negative. The bar on the diode facing away from the LED. I have one on my track and lights every time I power the track. You could try one, or go to radio shack and buy the parts. I went through a package in my testing. Because of AC the LED works in both directions and the diode protects the back voltage from destroying the LED. I am currently working on bridge rectifiers and voltage regulators. If you want to play get a bread board and test out before you solder. Personally my flashers are more dependable. I have two LEDs as headlights and I replaced both of them in the last year.So my study continues. Oh the 750 resistor is not sold at Radio Shack you need to get the next size up.
Super Bright can be obsolete. 2000 to 4000 is a common Radio Shack LED. I purchased 6000mcd as headlights. At this level avoid looking directly into the light. Ebay has them at 25000 mcd but I have found the 6000 to be plenty. They draw 30ma at 3.3 volts (Shown as the blue LED)
I didn’t detect a Chinese accent and wasn’t put off by the ad’s English, but by the weak grasp of electrical knowledge, which might be a clue to the competence of the designer.
Well I ordered 10 of them, so I guess I’ll be the test pig on this one! I love gadgets however so I’m looking forward to this. I’ll report back with service and usage reports as soon as I get them. Jake
The best cheapest way is goto ebay and pick which ones you want and they come with the correct resistor for them … 18v . They come in multi packs .
I cannot find such an animal on Ebay and I spend a fair amount of time there. Do yo have a link? thanks, Jake
5000 hits!
You may have to narrow it by searching “prewired” or by color or size.
This ebay store has more than most … http://cgi.ebay.com/10-White-3mm-LEDs-w-resistors-for-18V-DCC-Headlights_W0QQitemZ370127550407QQcmdZViewItemQQptZModel_RR_Trains?hash=item370127550407&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50
different colors … styles … etc. Make sure you get the correct voltage ! 18v is what you will need for train power supplies to be safe … unless you have a lower output hookup on your transformer … I’m quite sure 12v units will fry quick otherwise . Alot of them are only 12v … read the specs .
These are supposed to be prewired and useable from 12v - 18v …6 different colors you can mix or match …
Thanks for your help, Respectfully,
Jake