I personally LOVE weathering, and I know a lot of others like it as well. As such, I would love to start this discussion to allow us weathering-loving modelers to share our work, and allow us to exchange our ideas and plans. So, let’s get weathering!
To start off, I’ll share some pictures of my most recent weathering job, an N Scale Fox Valley Models PS 5344 Single door boxcar lettered for the Apalachicola Northern.
Before I tackled the painting and weathering of these structures I did a lot of research on “Prairie Sentinels”. If you look closely you will not only see bare wood where the paint has worn off but wood where it had been missed with the paintbrush altogether. This was quite intentional on my part as these had been pointed out in coffee table books on Grain Elevators that I have read. In fact, sometimes they never painted them at all, leaving bare wood to the elements. Also being sloppy and getting paint on the asphalt roofing material was done on purpose as well.
The bright yellow trim I saw in a photo in one of those coffee table books where it stated they would just use whatever paint they had laying around. A little bright for my taste and I plan on dirtying up the paint to tone it down.
I did the peeling paint using the rubber cement method where you dab on rubber cement in spots before painting and just use your finger to roll it off when dry, it is very effective.
My favourite bit is the vertical beam on the wheat bin where the paint has come off. Click on pic for the large view.
I “dirtied” up my SD-9 witha thin wash of flat Black. Kinda gave it that Oxidized faded paint look. The fuel spill stain’s on the tank’s was a thinned down wash of clear glosscote. The truck’s got a 50/50 wash of thinner and Rust, followed by a wash of Black.
I found a photo of MEC 263 that looked like it had been in some muddy spray, and had to duplicate it
U25s often had a soot buildup around the air intakes at the end of the long hood
GP7 BM 1715 had been painted on a simplified bicenntennial scheme in 1976; a book photo from a few years later showed some hard work and need for a good wash
I’m not sure what happened but my text is hidden behind an inlarged picture and I can’t see to edit it. I am using Imgur. Something is not the working the same???
There are some simple things you can do, even if you lack artistic skills. Here is an ordinary kit built car back from a train show. Notice the shiny black plastic gleam from the trucks.
Here is the same car after I painted the trucks with red auto primer from a rattle can. And brush painted the wheel faces with grimy black. You can also spray paint the undercarriage with light or dark gray auto primer and gentle down the entire paint job with DullCote. The DullCote does good things for overly bright trainset cars. Cars with tarred canvas roofs, cabeese, express reefers, milk cars, and heavy weight passenger cars, look really good after you paint the roof with dark gray auto primer.
This is an Athearn car from the time before I backdated my layout to the late '30s, lettered with custom dry transfers from C-D-S…
It, and a couple hundred other too-modern cars, were sold-off to re-finance more appropriate equipment.
Here’s one of the replacement kits, a pretty-much stock Bowser X31A…
This one is a re-painted Train Miniature kit from a train show, with lettering from Champ…
…a Tichy kit, with dry transfer lettering from C-D-S…
This one is a Sylvan kit, with C-D-S lettering. The car is too modern for my era, but since it represents a prototype from my hometown, I used my modeller’s licence to make it “okay”. It’s shown below at GERN Industries in Port Maitland on my layout. Many of the real ones served an industry in the real Port Maitland, and most were weathered even more severely than the car shown, as they were in phosphate service…
This one is from a Tichy kit, with C-D-S lettering, but the maple leaf herald was not in use in the '30s…