I bought an Atlas Code 83 Mark IV turnout yesteray, as well as a Walthers/Shinohara “DCC friendly” turnout yesterday.
Although I’m happy with the price, I’m not super satisfied with the motion of trucks going through the frogs, so I’m not quite ready to give up my handlaying pursuit quite yet.
What brands do people prefer, and why?
I started with Atlas snap-switches, since I’m tight for space and trying to keep the cost down. I realize now that I really, really don’t like the above-table switch machines, so I’m now using Peco for my more recently-purchased turnouts. The Peco twin-coil machines attach solidly to the underside of the turnout.
As an experiment, I took one of the Atlas under-table machines, bashed the linkage a bit and glued it to the underside of the turnout. I haven’t installed it yet, so I can’t say how it works. Unfortunately, the linkage on the Atlas under-table machines is really designed for a layout made of 3/4 inch plywood, and it’s too short for those of us who use 2-inch foam. I’m a bit worried that the Atlas design seems to depend on the flexing linkage to allow the twin-coil to throw all the way and hold the points against the rail by the tension of the linkage. With my tighty-mounted arrangement, there is no flex left so I’ll have to see how well it works.
I’ve also bought cheap DC relays, which I power in parallel with the twin-coil machine. These are used to drive turnout indicator signals, both on-layout and on my control panels.
Lesson Learned? For the cost of a Peco switch machine and a relay, you’re just about up to the cost of a Tortoise, which comes with the contacts already built in and doesn’t require an extra relay.
At home I use Atlas Code 100 Custom Line…had them laying around. Price was right, and they work.
At the club, the preference is Peco Code 100. A few have had to be replaced. Don’t depend on the little contacts to reliably shut off power to yard tracks. Run a little bit of wire and use a switch. We also had some sort of goofy short circuit/backfeed that caused a few switchs to smoke.[:0] The affected swiches are now out of service – some pastic melted, and their rails are no longer held in place.
The prototype doesn’t use under table switch machines. The Atlas machines might be a little oversize compared to prototype, but so are our fingers.[;)] It is the easiest way to have a dual-control switch – either the dispatcher can throw it or the crew at the switch can hand-operate it.
Some frogs in real life are a little bouncy, rough, etc. As long as the train stays on the track, why worry?
I use Atlas code 83, and Shinohara/Walthers code 83. I buy mostly Atlas cause they are cheaper and so far I have had no issues witthem at all. I buy Walthers / shinohara because I need certain tracks like double crossovers and other turnouts that other manufactures dont make. I have no derailing issues with either and for the little movement over the frogs look more realistic show me a prototype that doesn have weird movement… I use tortoise under table switches they keep the points tight and look really good when thrown.
I have been using Atlas switches for years and years. They offer enough bang for the buck to keep me happy. I spent on other stuff years ago but would never buy anything less now. Buy cheap buy twice, yup without a doubt!!
I use LifeLike Snap Switches. They are the cheapest, and what is there that could go wrong with them?
I startedwith Atlas switches and machines but really didn’t like the look of them. I bonded a bunch of them upside down on the turnouts working into a piece of square tube plastic and so far so good. For new turnouts I get the Peco code 100’s and the integral machine that also mounts underneath. For places that are infrequently used and easily reached I use Caboose hand thrown machines - just like the real thing. I haven’t tried any of the remote cable operated type home made or store bought, but the idea intrigues me. I,ve had lots of issues with the atlas switches continuity and gauge, no issues so far with the Peco. Either function fine most of the time. Good luck,[:D] J.R.
EVERYONE has their favorites.
I started with ‘Snap Switches’, replaced them with ‘Customline’. Replaced those with Tru Scale closed frogs, which have been replaced with Shinohara code 100 mainline and code 70 in yards.Wheel bounce has dropped imeasurably
if you want ‘derail proof’ turnouts get the Anderson designed BK. After spiking in place using an NMRA gauge, you can scarcely hear a ‘click’ going through the turnout. Prefab switches are difficult to keep in ‘spec’ due to manufacturing tolerances. Try a BK and see for yourself.
On my HO modules I use Peco code 100’s on the two mainlines because they are power routing and have the spring link that holds the points tight to the rail. I use Atlas Customline code 100 for everything else, most with Caboose Industries ground throws.
On my home layout, I use Atlas Code 83 #6’s, with Walthers and/or Shinohara’s for specialty locations (for example, a #6 scissor, a #8 double slip, a 9.5 degree diamond, etc.). I use Tortoise machines under the mainline switches, Caboose groubd throws in other places. But the majority, I simply move them over by hand (or rather, with a bamboo skewer). Eventually, all will be either Tortoise or ground throw, but I’m still buying more important things first…like more cars and locos.
At my RR club, all switches are thrown by Tortoise. The mainline switches are controlled by DS54 stationary decoders, and the rest by DPDT toggles.
Also at my club, the plastic switches are all Walthers/Shinohara #5’s, #6’s, #8’s and #10’s. We also use some curved switches and other specialty track.
However, a large portion of the layout is all handlaid…most of it not so well. We have a couple guys who can build switches, but we also have a few guys that think they can when they really can’t. Therefore, I’ve been telling my club to buy handlaid track jigs from www.handlaidtrack.com and do it right. But so far, no one is coughing up the cash.
EDIT: Oh, I forgot to mention that the main reason why I use Atlas Code 83 switches is that it’s the lowest priced “quality” switch available. Sure, there are cheaper ones and there are better ones, but IMHO these have the most value, or bang for the buck. Less than 5 years ago, I was paying about $6 per switch from an online dealer. Last time, they were up to about $7.50 per, but that was a while ago…
Paul A. Cutler III
Weather Or No Go New Haven
I have used both Shinnohara/Walthers Code 83 and Atlas Code 100 and Code 83 track and turnouts. Both worked OK but I found the Atlas turnouts easier to install. In addition the Walthers turnouts were not DDC friendly (although I understand they are now being maded DDC friendly). Maybe if I was more skilled at track laying and sodering jumper wires the Walthers would still be OK.
I also used Shinnohara code 83 flex track but find Atlas is less expensive, especially in the box of 100.
I did not use Atlas switch machines as I liked Tortise better. Just personal preference.
Jim
My major experience was with EZ-Track snap switches, and although the points invariably need some reshaping and filing at the tips, they worked 100%. The solid core frogs were not great, and many items rocked across them, but…
I have made several turnouts using the Fast Tracks jigs, and they are incredibly smooth. So, I am using several of those, plus a number of Shinohara Code 83 curved #7.5’s, and lots of Peco Streamline Code 83 #6’s. Things seem to run through all of them quite smoothly, but you will have to use a polyurethane or clear varnish/nail polish for the 6 mm right after the V of the frogs due to insufficient insulating plastic to keep the wider metal wheels from bridging the insulation and causing a short. You will find that this happens much of the time, so this fix should be something you just accept that you will end up doing before long.
I have used Atlas ‘Custom Line’ turnouts for over 20 years. I have had only 1 turnout that needed replacement(and that was my fault). As with any turnout, check the gauge, and the ‘fit’ of the points against the stock rail before you lay it. I have been very impressed by Peco turnouts(mainly that locking spring), but the LHS had problems with ‘Insulfrog’ turnouts with DCC. The width of some engine drive wheels would short across the top of the frog where the rails come together. Some clear model paint resolved the problem, but it is a ‘fix’ that will need to be done ‘over & over’. The problem only seemed to happen with DCC - I suspect shorting a full 5 or 8 amp booster compared to maybe 1 or 2 amps for a DC bock made it show up more often. I have been ‘stockpiling’ for a future layout when I retired in about 5 years, and have been buying Atlas code 83 flex and turnouts(and a few Walthers/Shinohara curved turnouts).
Jim
I use code 83 Micro Engineering #6, and Walthers/Shinohara #4 (but if they made them, I would use ME #4). They’re expensive, but very good quality.
For switch machines, I mainly use my own home made manual switch machines, which cost only a few dollars each to make. The problem with them is that they can only be used on turnouts that are perpendicular to the edge of the workbench. For turnouts that aren’t, I use Tortoise’s, but I am searching for something that costs less. I used to use Atlas under the table switch machines, but they proved to be too weak.
I currently have a mix of Atlas and Walthers code 83 turnouts. I haven’t tried Peco, nor Micro Engineering (ME) turnouts, though I have used Atlas and ME flextrack. I plan to use more Atlas code 83, try ME turnouts, and probably ME code 70 and code 55. Still looking for code 70 and 55 turnouts.
Brad
My LHS told me to get code 83 peco switches which I did. I never have regretted it either!
Cheapest is usually NEVER a good choice. I bought them with the same thinking as you. They’ve been the biggest piece of you-know-what I ever owned. The points are so flimsy they’re IMPOSSIBLE to keep in gauge and the frog wears down REALLY fast, leading to derailements. An Atlas manual snap-switch is the same price as a remote LL and the Atlas has MUCH stronger points that wil certainly stay in gauge.
Me, I use Atlas snap-switcers and have had excellent luck. I threw my LL switches away.
Depend on me to tack into the wind.
When I started my recently discontinued layout I purchased a sample few commercial, ready to install turnouts. All of the usual brands were represented. After noting their price relative to that of the “makins” for handlaid specialwork, and the fact that I had to compromise track location (and siding capacity) to use them, I concluded that rolling my own was the best way for me to fly. So far, I’ve seen no reason to change that opinion.
Chuck
I’ve used 99% Atlas code 83 turnouts, mostly #6’s, a few #4’s and 2 wye turnouts because they seemed to give me the best value out of all of them. They came recommended from 2 clubs as well as my own club and so far I haven’t had any problems with any of them. They look great and function very smoothly.
I make my own. I use code 70 and 55 Micro Engineering rails and ties made from strips of blank PC board. It costs about $1.50 to make one, and I can have it be any number I need it to be. Even better is that I can have curved ones, which was a real space saver (or maker) on my little RR.
This takes patience. It can take anywhere from an hour and a quarter to 3 hours to build one, but MAN does the time fly when doing so! Sometimes the turnouts require additional tweaking once on the layout, but once they’re dialed in they’re very reliable. I do use Micro Engineerings flex track in both code 70 and 55. My HO RR is a section of a branchline so no heavy mainline track is required. Dan