I’m new to the forum and relatively new to G gauge so be gentle. For the past 12 years I have set up a train under the tree. Sometimes it is a Lionel set and other times a LGB set. For the LGB set I have an oval and the curves are 5’ diameter (15000 track - R2 radius). In total I have the 12 pieces of 15000 track and two of the 3’ straight sections for my oval.
This year I decided I would like to add two switches and an inner circle to the oval. It appears LGB does not make R2 switches. I have seen R1, R3, R5 and others. OK, now here’s the dumb question. Can I use the R1 switches (12100 and 12000) to complete the inner circle with R2 (15000) track? I just want to make sure everything matches up OK.
Coalfrog mate, there are no stupid questions, those who do not ask, usually do not know and contimue to do so.
You can use any size LGB points (switch) you like and the curve you are using now will almost certainly be R3, so you will have a good match If you have an 0-4-0 loco which you probably do, the whole thing will gel just great. If you try to run an 0-4-0 loco on bigger points the frog may be too big and you will have conductivity problems over the points (hesitation).
Having said that i use all electric LGB R3 points and put up with it; as i have many larger locos that like the larger frog. Long term i will pay more and get a better switch in R3 types.
The problem is, and i warn people of this all the time; don’t buy anything that you really don’t need in these early stages, as you wil l almost certainly change your mind as your expertise increases and you will regret the money you have spent unwisely.
Replace one of the 10000 (1ft) sections with a 12150 (R1LH) turnout, attach a 12150 turnout to the first one. Then add the required 10000 pcs - on on the straight section of each turnout. Add the 12pcs of 11000 (R1) and the two 10000 (1ft) pcs and you’re done. The geometry matches perfectly.
Of course you could add two 12050 turnouts in the other side of the ovals, then you could move from the outer to the inner circle and back again without reversing direction or backing up the train.
Thank you for the reply. I am running a Sandy River and Rangley Lakes forney loco with three SR&RL passenger cars. I had lights in the passenger cars at one time but took them out since I just had them strung together and powered by the connector in back of the loco. My next project is to purchase the metal wheels sets so I can power the lights that way. I’ll take heed to your advice. A little at a time. I have my sights set on the LGB Christmas streetcar and that may be my next purchase but that will do it for this year.
I stopped at the hobby shop last night and picked up the extra track and switches. Set them up and everything appears to be working fine.
Thank you for the reply. I never thought of that idea. I like it. After reading my initial post I think what I really wanted to say was that I wanted to create a passing siding and not a complete inner circle. Is that the correct term?
Just repeat a second switch on the other side and omit 1/2 the inner loop, voila! you get a passing siding on the inside R1 curves and use the mainline on the outside loop.
In order to make the track align properly, add a piece of 10040 (41mm straight) between the R2 pieces. 10040 indicated in RED.
Avoiding as many kinks as possible makes for smoother running.
Coalfrog, ER’s second post keeps r1 radius to a minimum but you can only have one train continuously running (unless you don’t mind collisions).
But the first post shows a loop within a loop. But the two switches back to back, called a cross-over (as opposed to a crossing), to get from one oval to the other present a tight S curve which could give problems.
This can be eliminated by having the switch on the outer loop being a left handed one and the one on the inner loop being a right handed one, the curved part being part of the oval’s curved track. And at the top of the diagram, you could exit the inner loop using a left hand switch and the straight route of the switch would enter the curved route of a right hand switch on the outer loop. Thus you would end up with 6 sections of curved track on the left end of the inner loop; and the right end of the inner loop would have a left hand switch at the top, then 4 sections of curved track, ending with a the right hand switch at the bottom.
You will need to extend the straight route between each pair of switches with either a 10040 (41mm long) or 10050 (52 mm) small section of straight track to keep the spacing between tracks more or less correct. I prefer using the 10050 sections. The precise length is 46 mm so if you need two, one of each works nicely, too!
I use LGB Kuggel wheels to provide electric power for lighting etc, not only that but they have ball bearing wheels which reduces load on your loco dramatically but unfortunately they are very exxy
The track plans that have been mentioned above are pretty basic and i would use them as a guide only as it may or may not suit your situation and they will certainlt not be much good as you get into it. I personally wouldn’t be bothered with them and they really do not have much use in outdoor garden railways; ok for inside and very basic situations though.
Whnen you get into the garden it will determine your layout, not some theoretical drrawing.
Actually the ballbearing wheelset from LGB is called “Kugellager-Radsatz” (LGB #67403).
Apart from being expensive they are also overkill, a metal wheelset with just one ballbearing will work just as well. All that is required is independent turning of the two wheels to compensate for the differental of the outer and inner rail circle.
One make that comes to mind is San-Val.
Irrespective of the full name of these wheels, they are generally referred to as just Kuggel wheels or they were when i was in Germany last year.
I would take some convincing that as a very low friction wheel and a power pick up, that anything else was as good. This doesn’t mean that i cannot be convinced though.
