I was looking at getting the Life Like remote control switches because they are currently only 25 cents more than the manual Atlas Snap Switches. It has been so long since I bought track (23 years) that I do not even remember what I had back then. I think I had NS Atlas Snap Switches.
I am not so much worried about what they look like. I just want to know if the Life like switches are compatable with the Atlas Code 100 Flex Track.
Which Life-Like switches are you talking about. The code 100 remote control switches are ‘Junk’ - Not sure if they are still ‘steel’ like the curved/straight trackage.
Think about this: You are investing money in a layout, and you want to save 25 cents/switch on what will be the foundation of the layout? If you are using flex track, I would stay away from very limiting sectional track turnouts(18" radius).
Jim
I would have to agree with JR on this one. When it comes to switches dont’ go for the bargin. If you’re really on a tight budget I would compare costs of the most expensive switches and the lowes junkiest, then split in the middle and get what you can afford. But I wouldn’t start with those LL switches, go for at least Atlas and the best you can afford there.
Just my [2c]
I have use Life Like C100 switches before on a ISL and they are far from junk and they will work with Atlas C100 flex track.The LL switch is comparable to Atlas’s “Snap Switch”.
However,I would spend the extra cash for the Atlas switches.
Why? Simple…Atlas makes a very nice #4 switch that most long wheel base engines and cars will negotiate unlike the sharp Life Like switch that limits locomotive and car sizes.
These things?
(Image from HobbyLinc, by the way.)
They are listed in the fine print as steel. You really want nickel-silver, not steel or (heaven forbid) brass track. They also have machines which look similar to the Atlas surface-mounted ones.
My layout uses mostly Atlas snap-switches. I’ve got a small space (5x12 feet) and a lot of trackage, so I have to use tight curves anyway. The 18-inch radius curves don’t bother me. Also, I’ve found that after 3 years I’ve had no trouble at all with any of my Atlas turnouts, either the snap-switch or Custom Line models. I’ve even salvaged older switch machines from my previous layout’s brass track, and they still both fit the mounts and work well. 50+ years old for some of them.
But, (and it’s a but even larger than my own,) I really, really have come to hate those surface-mounted switch machines. I’ve gone to great lengths to hide them all - building scenic covers from foam and plaster cloth, mounting them upside-down beneath the turnout, extending the throw rods to sneak them into trackside structures, the works. After doing way too many of these, I now buy Peco turnouts.
my05h:
If you’re talking about the LL switches in the latest Walthers mailout catalog, I think those might be steel*, although I’m not sure. I have two older LL brass* remote switches. These two were Atlas clones, and they work about the same.
If you’re just getting in, and don’t have track yet, and don’t intend to use a lot of secondhand track, I’d go for code 83. You might also look into Shinohara or Peco switches, now that Atlas aren’t much cheaper.
The best way to answer your question is to buy one and try it out. They’re cheap, and if you have problems, you’re only out $8 or so.
**Yes, I use brass and steel, and after burnishing the rail I have no problems keeping it clean. Nobody seems to believe me when I say this, but it really is true. [:D]
I would have to agree with the others. I have scratchbuilt switches, I have used Atlas (in the past), I have tried others and currently of the 250 sum switches on my Santa Fe, the majority are Peco, the rest are Shinohara.
Like the track, the switches are the foundation of your layout. There is nothing more irritating to me, than to have to “tinker” all the time with switches and trackwork.
As a final note, most every code 100 switch made is “compatible” with the rest. Same with the other codes, but that doesn’t make them all work the same.
Bob
Spend the extra money to get the good turnouts and avoid the cheap stuff.
One of the advantages of the track with roadbed is the switch machines can be under the turnout. Not all manufacturers do this, but some do.
Enjoy
Paul
I used a couple of the Life-Like Power-Loc turnouts on a previous layout. They were cheap junk! By comparison, the Bachmann EZ-Track turnouts are more robust. The Atlas turnouts would be the best for the money as far as low priced turnouts go.
As I mention I use 'em before but,if the new ones are “steel” then avoid them.
Of course I don’t know want the other guys consider “junk” since that can vary from modeler to modeler and their personal definition of junk.
Boy I sure am glad there aren’t model railroad police or inspectors, why I’d be in jail for the rest of my life. I have nickle silver track, brass track, and oh my god even steel track. My switches are atlas, Peco, and oh no life like curved switches. I have no problem running my long trains on my layout. The only problem I had is with the 2 lifelike curved switches, the long passenger cars were hitting the switch machine. I took the switch machine off and rigged a tortise machine under them, no problem. I clean all track by hand where I can reach with flitz polish every 6 months or so, it takes 2 days. I also clean the wheels, and I have both metal and plastic. Changing the plastic to metal as I go and also the changing all a little at a time to Kay Dee couplers. I do have trouble with my subway which is part steel track when in DCC, it didn’t run right but after clieaning I dry rub it with a soft rag and wd 40, an exremely light coat. I have 2 subway lines. I run my trains, since I’m retired, at least 3 times a week and I’m still building and now using code 100 nickle silver and peco switches for the most part on the new additions. I believe in maintaing my layout and the more you run your trains the less problems you have all the way around no matter what equipment cheap or expensive you have.
Consider this before purchasing a turnout: A turnout is the only piece of trackwork with moving parts, so what do you think will always be the first thing to break among all of your trackwork? Don’t skimp on turnouts. Get the best you can afford, and don’t buy the really cheap products because you will probably wind up having to repalce them in short order.
I did not realize that the LL turnouts were steel.
That in itself puts the brakes to using them.
I will try the Atlas Snap Track Turnouts. I just might buy a couple first to check them out. Although I am at this time pretty certain that the Snap Track turnouts are what I ran as a kid and had no issues with.
Money is an ussue since I still have five or six hundred dollars in structures to purchase, thirty seven more DCC decoders to buy, and 45 turnouts to get. I would like to get some trains at least running on an incomplete layout before next summer.
Time to sell the Trans Am.
my05H:
That’s a lot of railroad. Are you sure you want that much?
I think a huge project like that carries the risk of burning you out before it gets to be fun. Remember that the huge layouts in MR usually need a large crew to operate, and the average layout that actually gets built and run is something like 60 sq ft.
If I were you, I’d look at something simpler and medium-sized. You’ll have more fun. At the very least, design your layout so a small part can be built first and operated in an enjoyable way, so you can relax from the Project.
It sounds larger than it will actually be. The layout’s main line will only be around 100 feet or so in a point to point configuration with three towns that stretches around the basement.
I already have most of the industrial structures I need, 38 locomotives, most of the RR cars and pass cars, a transfer table, and a Digitrax system,
I plan on having a lift out bridge to make it a full circle so that I can have a 22 car coal train and a 10 car comuter train operating continuously in oposite directions. This way when I am running trains by myself I can run a local in between the other running train
Standard Hobby Supply has Atlas NS code 100 remote snap switches for $11.99. How does that compare to the LL turnouts?
'BEAS 'ol Buddy:
QUOTE “… (I) hate those surface-mounted switch machines. I’ve gone to great lengths to hide them all - building scenic covers from foam and plaster cloth, mounting them upside-down beneath the turnout, extending the throw rods to sneak them into trackside structures, the works. After doing way too many of these, I now buy Peco turnouts.”
I think you’re saying a 50 -60 year old product is good enough. Fine. And the reusing Atlas’ twin coils of 60 years ago still fit today’s code 100 line - when they work. Is strong afirmation. (Mine rusted),
I ‘hate’ those black frogs. (No one is perfect). My 50 year old Shinohara’s still work, have better looking frogs, and fewer derailments. Co$t has been forotten long ago over the years - espcially siince I buy them a few at a time.
With PECO switches you should like the more ‘solid’ feel and ‘under table’ twin coil design. EXCELSIOR!
Only a dollar more! I have been buying my Digitrax decoders from them. I will start getting the turnouts from them too.
Henderson?
That depends on the person. My current layout has existed since mid 80’s, is three decks, 35ft by 28ft and as I posted before over 200 turnouts. I have group operations, but I also keep a on going operating session going between groups, meaning I use a sequence, and go down to the railroad room at various times for an hour or two to run. The layout is done, I did most of it, it was not too much to handle, and I enjoy it as much today as when I started.
as I posted, I have over 250 turnouts, most of them Peco, the rest Shinohara or scratch built, and mounted on Homabed roadbed. Don’t care for the track on formed ro