I might have E-mailed about this before, but I want to hook up my peco turnouts, can I hook them up like Atlas or is there a different way to hook them up. And can I hook them up with Atlas wiring and there snap switch buttons???[xx(] HELP ME
Thanx Trainsrme1
From my experience with N scale turnouts of both brands,I can tell you that they are electrically wired exactly the same way,but this is all they should share in my opinion.First,Peco turnout twincoil motors draw much more current to operate well so a capacitive discharge unit is much recommended.Then,I wouldn’t use Atlas’s turnout control switches (even with Atlas TO’s) as I find them flimsy at best.Also,I read somewhere that they have a tendancy to stick,thus frying the turnout motor.My opinion…for what it’s worthed.
Jactal
Thanks for the info, I’ll leave Atlas to Atlas and Peco to Peco.[:-,]
One difference is that the Atlas turnouts have 3 wires, the Peco turnouts have 4 lugs that you have to attach wires to. Join one lug from each coil (on the same side) together. This becomes the common wire (equivalent to the black wire on Atlas). Then attach a wire to these lugs, and wires to the remaining 2 lugs. It would be a good idea to use different colours, like the Atlas wires.
As has already been stated, it’s not a good idea to use the Atlas switches with Peco turnouts. The Atlas switches don’t have a good track record for reliability and the Peco turnouts do draw more current. Single pole, double throw, centre off, momentary miniature toggle switches or normally open, momentary pushbuttons in a panel would be best.
Let’s see, where’s that little “Dito” smiley?
Good advice. It’s exactly my experience with my Peco turnouts.
By the way, they work great. You do have to be careful to line up your rails correctly, though. I use code 100, and the rail sizes are slightly different from Atlas code 100. If you’re careful with your trackwork, though, it should not be a problem.
Seamonster, you left out the most dependable, absolutely reliable, failure-free switch machine power control - hot probe and studs. It has the additional advantage of taking very little panel space (a brass screw head has a smaller footprint than any pushbutton or toggle that could handle the surge.)
Atlas panel switches are notorious for their tendency to stick. Teeny weenie push buttons tend to fry, sometimes taking the switch machine in the process. With a hot probe, unless your switch machine can handle welding currents, when you break contact, the contact is well and truly broken. Even if the probe welds itself to the stud, a quick twist of the wrist will snap the joint and open the circuit.
My heartburn with Peco turnouts/machines?
Other than that, they are a quality product that will perform as advertised if installed correctly. They aren’t likely to tempt me away from handlaying my own specialwork.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September,1964)
The good. bad. and the ugly, in no particular order:
They Look similar, but Pecos ‘Power route and Atlas’ do not.
Atlas’ are 'DCC friendly. Peco’s Insulfrog also, but Peco’s Electrofrog are not.
Peco’s have a inernal spring to keep points aligned. Atlas requires an external switch machine. Beginners tend to buy what’s cheapest, and replace, later…
Atlas’ 18"r ‘Snap Switces’ are curved. Peco uses 3 curved radii in codes 100, 80, and 75 . Atlas ‘Numbered’ switches are NMRA. Only Peco’s code 83 is of NMRA design.
Peco turnouts are more expensive, and last longer than Atlas.
Atlas code 83 has plastic roadbed (to buy), Peco does not.
BOTH use ‘twin coil’ switch machines requiring momentary contacts.
Nothing is perfect, but state-of-the-art (SOTA) is Fine Line:
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