I’ve finally reached the point where I have to install the track across the gaps in my swing gate. I’ve seen several methods used. In the current “season” of the MRVP Rehab series, David Popp solders about an inch of each rail to a PCB he has secured to the sub-roadbed with track nails. I like the PCB/solder idea, but I wouldn’t use nails and I probably wouldn’t have put the PCB on top of cork either – reminds me of an old thread about building on sand…
In all cases, I think the basic requirements are that the gate is done and it closes and locks at the same spot every time. The track is laid across the gap, secured on both sides, and then cut. Some sort of power interlock should be used to prevent trains from running over the edge when the gate is open.
Another thought that I have is that sectional track would be better to use than flex, especially if there is a curve because sectional is rigid doesn’t want to flex back after it’s been cut.
For those of you that have done this, what did you do? How has it held up over time? How would you do it today?
People who build modular layouts deal with this all the time.
The simplest and most straightforward, I think, is to use PCB (printed circuit board) ties, as illustrated above. The “last” ties should be PCB. And as many others as possible/convenient.
For your case, I would replace the last 2" of cork roadbed with wood. And I would use small screws (#2 wood) to hold the PCB ties down (flat head, if it will show).
Of the modules I’ve studied, all ran the cork right up to end of track (as opposed to the wood suggestion I made). None had problems. The “trick” is to securely anchor the PCB ties. Done right, you could probably remove the underlying cork, and it would still work. But, for especial security, I recommend using wood.
If you do a good job with the PCB ties and also spiking/nailing/gluing the track, flex track will work easily–no need for snap-track.
Another approach would be to replace the last 1-2" of cork AND ties with wood. And then to vigorously spike the rails down. Ah say, VIGOROUSLY!
Especially if it doesn’t show badly, I would use the biggest meanest spikes I could find that would still leave flange clearance on the insides. And lots of them.
You do know, of course, you’ll have to pre-drill holes–a bit undersize. And a couple of track gages will likely be necessary as you work.
Cool. I’ve seen those before but for some reason forgotten about them. Since my gate swings sideways to shut, the 2 pieces of subroadbed meet at a 45° angle to the rails. Any reason these wouldn’t still work?
How do you secure them to the roadbed? Epoxy? Nails/spikes?
I think I like the idea of these for their intended purpose of creating electrical gaps as well. I’ve always distrusted the little pieces of styrene I’ve been gluing into the gaps.
I’m actually using a Homosote roadbed product instead of cork, but I think your idea is still a good one. Too bad you can’t get the old milled wood roadbed anymore. It shouldn’t be too much trouble to “mill” my own since I’ll only need 4"or so.
