Thanks to all who replied to my problem turntable lead track. I did decide to rip the track up and that left a gouged up foam base. I now have the chore of filling the trough under the track to bring it level with the rest of the surrounding area. This trough averages 1/16" to 1/8" deep and is too irregular to use styrene filler (I don’t have any anyhow). One reply said not to use joint compound but that is the logical solution for me. I would apply it in 2 or 3 coats to minimize cracking and sand it flush when all coats have cured.
Is there a better way?
A shame you are not using roadbed here, like cork or the Woodland Scenis stuff. You wouldn’t have to do ANYTHING but lay new roadbed, spreading the caulk out so it filled in the depressions.
That may still work, lay caulk and use a putty knife to smooth it out level at the depressions. When it dries, go back and run another bead to lay the track.
–Randy
There are a few products which could work in this situation. Spackling paste, or Ready Patch spackling and patching compound, a carefully mixed bit of Durham’s water putty, or some Scuptamold. None are ideal because this isn’t really what they are intended to do.
You’d likely find yourself wanting to “overfill” the gaps and then lightly sand it to match the top of the foam, rather than try to get it right when it is in semi soft of liquid state and hope it dries just like that, because it probably will not.
Another possibility would be, if you have one of those hot wire tools, to route out a length that can be replaced with a new piece – not necessarily of the same foam but other foam.
Dave Nelson
I used drywall compound to fill in gouges in the foam on my layout and it works just fine. The only problem, if it is even a problem, is that the drywall compound is rock hard compared to the foam making it hard to stick pins in to hold track.
Bruce, the reason I advised against joint compound is mainly because of its propensity to crack, but it’s also because it’s not intended for filling such holes, either in a wall or on your layout. Go to your local Home Depot, Rona, or lumber yard and get a 5lb. box of Durabond patching plaster. There’ll be a number, such as -20, -60, or -90 following the name - that’s the setting time in minutes. Mix it according to the directions on the box, apply it with a drywall knife or wide putty knife in a single application (doesn’t matter how thin or thick the application, it won’t crack) and as soon as it sets, you can lay the new track.
Landforms, bridge piers and abutments, and water, all made with Durabond-90:
Wayne
Repair the area with another piece of foam. You could cut out a section and glue it back in with the foam bonder that comes in a calking tube. OR I would make a half thickness slot under the track area and glue in a half thickness repair. Either way gives you a flat surface to lay track on. With the half thickness the repair will not show on the bottom.
Once again, more caulk, smoothed, is what I would suggest. Especially if you are most of the way through a tube, have not much need for more, and it will otherwise go to waste because it will dry over time, even with a cover over the nib. Otherwise, I would use a putty or patching compound of some sort, again smoothed. Don’t smooth it flush, but dome it just a bit toward the center to account for drying shrinkage. Then sand or file smooth. AFAIAC, it should provide a super surface. More caulking in a thin layer will provide the same adhesion you need as before.
Crandell