I am modeling a harbor scene into my layout, and could use some advice on creating a realistic looking harbor bottom. I have created the bottom using two layers of plaster cloth over the plywood frame. I am using undiluted acrylic tube color over the plaster cloth to seal the cloth in preparation for pouring the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water. My shortcoming is smoothing the plaster cloth seams to my satisfaction. After six applications of the tube acrylic, most of the imperfections have softened greatly. After the sixth coat it dawned on me - could I mix up some lightweight hydrocal and spread some over the most pronounced seams to smooth them out even more, then finish the harbor bottom color, and then pour the realistic water? I don’t want to have the seams show through the realistic water, not as a lump in the surface of the water, but as the realistic water dries clear, to be noticeable when viewing the harbor.
You really need a coating of plaster to seal the minute holes that are present in the plaster cloth layers. Even two layers of plaster cloth will be porous enough that the realistic water will find places to leak through. A good layer of hydrocal should seal the plaster cloth for you and smooth out the seams.
Yes, be sure it is well sealed. Many sad stories of leaking water can be found on these forums. Also, remember that your depth only needs to be maybe a 1/2 inch at the most. Paint the bottom to show depth, some use a little craft paint mixed in the first pour of water to cloud the depths a little, clear for the last pour or two.
Depending on the type of harbour you’re modelling, you may not be able to see the bottom anyway. Most with which I’m familiar are pretty murky. I’m not familiar with that “water” product, but you should be able to tint it with either acrylic or lacquer-based paints - the label should have information on the proper stuff to use.
Using paint to fill holes is both an improper use of materials and a waste of paint. [swg] As noted, a thin coat of hydrocal will do the job better, cheaper, and easier. As for depth, you only need about 1/8" - you can simulate depth much better, easier, and cheaper using paint (see any connections here?).
It sounds as if you may already have a pretty deep spot for your harbour, so you have a couple of options. One is to build-up the depth with successive pours of the water product - most can’t be applied in overly thick pours - tinting them before pouring, then make the final pour using un-tinted material.
The other option is to make a single pour of hydrocal to reduce the depth of the harbour, then paint the plaster to simulate depth - dark colours for the deepest areas, and progressively lighter for shallower areas. When the paint has fully dried, do one pour of slightly tinted “water”, and when that has dried, add a thin un-tinted pour.
I have two large harbors on my HO layout. I used the plastic window with a random pattern used in doors to make a translucent windows in offices. I paint the smooth bottom side with a murky blue-green. The top side is overall ripply, much like a harbor. Scribe the plastic and snap on straight lines. Bob Hahn
I have done several projects with plaster cloth, Hydrocal, and Woodland Scenics Realistic Water.
One layer of plaster cloth is enough, followed a layer of Hydrocal to seal the plaster cloth and hide all of the imperfections. The way that you apply and smooth the Hydrocal will determine the appearance of the water because Realistic Water dries clear.
As Wayne pointed out, the use of paints to seal the plaster cloth is inappropriate. You are trying to do with paint what Hydrocal is meant to accomplish. The Hydrocal will hide the seams in the plaster cloth.
Once the Hydrocal dries, then you paint the base the color that you want. It is not too late to cover that painted surface with an application of Hydrocal.
Realistic Water should never be poured deeper than 1/8" at a time. If the base requires a pour deeper than 1/8", pour successive 1/8" layers, allowing each previous pour at least 24 hours to set, and longer if necessary to completely clear. Never add a successive layer while the previous layer shows any cloudiness.
The final result will be clear water, showing the color of the paint, and the swirls in the Hydrocal will be visible creating a moving water effect. Realistic Water seems to “shrink” into the crevices provides by the Hydrocal application, so the shallower the overall pour, the more the water will appear to be moving., The deeper the overall pour, the smoother the surface of the water will appear.
If you don’t like the smooth appearance of the final result, you can use Woodland Scenics Water Effects to create a more realistic surface including waves, boat wakes, etc. On the Woodland Scenics web site, you will find videos that demonstrate the entire process.
I agree with everything that everyone has said. I would like to add: Be very careful. If your harbor bed has a single pin hole, the Realistic Water will find it. Please don’t ask how I know this.
I appreciate it, and I totally agree with your sentiment about these forums.
When forum members have personal experiences with model railroading that they can share with their fellow members, that is when these forums are at their best.
I can tell you that I take much more than I give on these forums.
Thanks to all who responded to my post - I have learned a lot of good techniques and cautions from you. Before I began the installation of the plaster cloth, and before I called Woodland Scenics (WS) technical support for the first time, I unwisely sealed the plywood sub-surface for the harbor with Kilz oil-based primer/sealer, to make sure nothing would leak through. Well, according to WS, the primer gives off gases that will interfere with the Realistic Water, and it was their recommendation to use two layers of plaster cloth and three coats of acrylic paint to remedy the gas issue. It didn’t occur to me to think to smooth the plaster cloth seams with hydrocal before painting - during a follow-up call, WS did say I could sand the seams smooth. That was after I had already applied three or four layers of acrylic color. I have used plaster cloth extensively to model surface terrain, and never worried about seams, due to sealing the cloth with drywall joint compound - which can of course be smoothed with a damp sponge and painted easily. Caulk up another victory for “the beauty of hindsight”. I haven’t given up on making this work. Since acrylic color dries glossy, I think the best course may be to, as recommended in a reply above, tint the initial pour of Realistic Water to dull the look of the harbor bottom.
