I am planning a new layout and would like some tips on keeping it as light as possible. It will be 4’ x 7’. The one corner will be hanging from the ceiling so that is why it needs to be light. I would also like to keep it as thin as possible from the track to the bottom of the benchwork because it is above my work bench. I intend to use foam scenery.
JLK,
I do not know, what you are going to use for the hanging end. But I would sure, give some thought,as to the swinging,properties, associated,with that type of mounting. Just a Thought!!
Cheers, [D]
Frank
A hollow core door would make a good base for such a layout. Sturdy, they’re primed and usually won’t warp, and they’re lighter weight than a sheet of plywood.
2 sides will be mounted to the wall and the hanging corner will be supported by a threaded rod, unless someone has a better idea.
JLK,
Well in that case,if you used 1/2 inch threaded rod,at that end, you would not have to worry that much,about the weight factor. The concern would be how well you fasten it to the ceiling. Like the threaded rod, counter sunk nuts, into a length,of 2x4, then screwed,to the ceiling joists. Then you could still adjust the bottom,nuts and threaded bar…You could even go with a larger dia. rod,if you choose.
Cheers, [D]
Frank
True, it doesn’t need to be super light. would 1x3’s be strong enough? I think they should be.
JLK,
My free standing layout,is built with,1x3’s,1/2 ply,with a 1/2 Homasote layer on top, 25x 40 ft and never had,or will have a problem with it. I do have the luxury, of a 10 inch table saw though,to cut my own,1x3’s with no knots though. Like I said,mount the part to the ceiling properly and you should not have any problem’s, but I would use a 2x4,for that. Have Fun!!
Cheers, [D]
Frank
JKL,
One little bit more advice,the end that will be hanging,double up the ends,to the shape of a L angle,flush with the top of the rest,of the framework,for more meat,for the threaded rod’s.
Cheers, [D]
Frank
JKL,
One more thought! If you want,you can get a length of steel angle iron, screwed to the end and drill holes in the top angle,to accept,the threaded rod’s, probably would be the easiest and very strong…
Cheers, [D]
Frank
Most people overbuild their bench work because they really don’t understand how tension, compression and shear strength is achieved. Take a look at a modern TJI floor joist used in home construction today. It consists of a composite “I” beam with a web of oriented strand board (OSB) and top and bottom chords made from relatively small strips of solid or laminated wood. The top and bottom chords provide mostly tension/compression strength along the length of the joist as well as usable fastening surfaces. The thin OSB web provides all of the shear or top-to-bottom load strength. The TJI joist design is much lighter and stronger than solid lumber joists of similar outside dimensions.
Likewise, my son once built a through truss bridge for an eight grade science fair project using nothing but heavy paper cut from standard manila file folders. Careful positioning of square tubes made from paper to carry compression loads and thin strips of paper to carry tension loads resulted in a bridge structure about 18 inches long, three inches wide and four inches high, all weighing just a few ounces. With this bridge supported at its ends by wood block abutments, he was able to place over 35 pounds of weight (stack of 2.5, 5 and 10 pound weightlifting plates) on top of the center of this bridge without it failing. He displayed it at the science fair with 15 pounds of weight atop the bridge for the entire duration of the fair.
I use this same idea to construct open grid bench work. I rip all of the pieces I need to create the open grid frame from a sheet(s) of hardwood or cabinet grade 1/2" plywood. I also prefer to glue all of my bench work joints for maximum strength and rigidity. I only use 18 gauge wire brads to hold the frame together while the glue dries but I do use glue blocks cut from a 2" by 4" ripped down its center to reinforce the corners. Once the glue dries overnight, you’ll be surprised at the rigi
Sorry but I can’t just resist the opportunity to retell an old pun.
My 2 x 3 foot portable layout is blue foam over a box frame of 1 x 2s and it is LIGHTER THAN AIR.
It is “lighter than air” because it represents the on-base trackage at a Navy blimp base, and “lighter than air” is an abbreviation of its full official name in Navy nomenclature: The United States Naval Air Station (Lighter than Air) Tidelands Railroad.
I can lift this with one hand and is 4’x4’. It is foam over 1x4’s.
Instead of lumber, consider steel studs to build your benchwork. They are both lighter and stronger than wood.
My own layout is an open grid of 1x4 and 1x3 lumber, with 2x3 wood legs, topped with 2-inch pink foam. That part is very light. However, now that it’s built up with track, trains, ballast, Envirotex water, structures and other scenery, it’s a lot heavier than the original foam-topped table. If you build light-weight benchwork, chances are the stuff on top will weigh more than the benchwork does.
One suggestion - use materials like Bragdon Foam for your rock castings, etc., rather than heavier stuff like Hydrocal.