I’d forgotten about this one.
The problem in my 1033 turned out to be the contacts not contacting on the whistle lever. Got a new contact assembly, but have not installed it yet. One of these days…
Exactly where would Ilace the diode in the 1033? I am guessing I would byypass the rectifier completely with the diode? I think I answered my question, huh?
seabilliau - Welcome to trains.com! [C):-)]
Yes; but, if the copper-oxide rectifier failed shorted, you need to disconnect at least one of its connections to the circuit. There is no need to remove it unless you want to.
The 1032 is the same internally, it’s just a bit lower in power at 75 watts.