Lionel 1688 wiring

Acquired a very nice Lionel 1688(not an E). Headlight lites up, but no movement or e-unit noise. Removed the body; found 2 wire not connected. How can I find out were they need to go? I put some pics in if that helps. I understand there are 3 different motors in the 1688. I believe I have the 3 type. It connects to the body with 2 long screws.

Any help greatly appreciated.

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24788991/413621749.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24788991/413621750.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24788991/413621751.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24788991/413621752.jpg

Here is the wiring diagram for the ‘E’-unit. It is the same for most engines.

Larry

You may want to consider replacing those wires, they look nasty!

Although Larry’s statement is true, that being his schematic is the same for most engines, I am not sure it is true for this locomotive. Please look at the Olsen’s Toy Train link.

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com//cd/b123/000546.pdf

swede

The different schematics have either the field or brush windings reversed by the E-unit. It does not matter what set of connections is reversed, as the results are the same.

Any motor can be wired either way with the same results.

Larry

Thanks guys! I’ll be looking at the diagrams today. Wiring is nasty, but going to try and use it. Some wiring color is left, but not much.

After all morning, I have the e-unit working. I got the motor to hummm, but not move. Saw a little smoke from it, so stopped what I was doing. Tried to find a pic online of the motor; none clear enough to see where the wiring went. Perhaps look online for a good running chassis as the body for this one is very nice. Or send it out for repairs.

Do not concern yourself with the wire coloring, as it will not match the schematic.

Identify the 2 Field winding connections and the 1 (left) Brush connection. The right Brush connection is grounded.

Follow the wiring on this schematic provided by Swede above and you should get the motor to run.

Larry

Thanks Larry; will try that.

That diagram is correct. I repaired my 1688. One brush goes to frame ground, instead of the field coil going to frame ground, as in most engines.

Still working on it. The wire from the pickups fell off. Will do more when I solder a new wire back on. The wire that go to the e-unit are going to be a problem to get back on. Looks like they are soldered into a small hole. Guess I need a pencil type soldering gun.

Progress; somewhat. Got the wiring corrected, thanks to another 1688. Found the part in the pic with the wire connected to it broken. I am guessing I need a new e-unit?

I know I’m spending alot of time on the 1688(2 of them now), but the bodies both are very nice(one black, the other gray) and I’d like to get them running again.

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1001/4368153/24793234/413684578.jpg

I suggest you learn how to renew e-units rather than replace them. There are some decent videos on YouTube on how it is done.

I whole heartedly agree with cwburfle. I guarantee you will get a great deal of personal satisfaction out of successfully rebuilding your E unit.

Although many people replace E unit as opposed to rebuilding them, it is not necessary if you have patience, some mechanical skill and can do a bit of soldering.

Attached are two very good videos to assist you in rebuilding or repairing your E unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3cHF_a6CNM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mA6AdfzXo3g

swede

Trains2353, Just be aware that there is a progression of 1688/1688E locos, that actually use three separate motors. Your initial 1688 is the last version, circa 1939 & later issue. That motor is identical to a Postwar 1654 “single reduction” motor, with a Bakelite (plastic) pickup assembly. The diagram that rrswede provided is correct. I seriously suggest you try to learn how to rebuild the E units, and look at the provided ‘YouTube‘ videos. If you have a question about the other versions of 1688’s, just post it.

Replaced the drum and all wiring plus the parts with the little copper fingers. Got that one going. Now moving to the next one.

Forgot they don’t like 027 switches.

Great to hear that worked out ! That’s how mine went Also, but I was able to re use the drum, but new fingers, and all new wiring.

Paul

Hi guys! This is my first post so please bear with me. I’m adding to this thread because I benefited from all the info above and took apart, cleaned and reassembled the e-unit in my 1688. Most of the wires are brittle and show signs of vertigris, so I intend to replace them following the great wiring diagram one of you posted. My questions are 1. Should I use 24 gauge solid wire? I’ve been reading articles and saw that. 2. I need to get at the center rail pickup spot. How do I get to it? Do I need to pull the wheels and take the whole chassis apart so I can solder a new wire? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Welcome to the forum!

Any rewiring should be done with 22 gauge stranded wire. 24 gauge solid wire is used on ‘E’-unit contact assemblies.

To change the wire to the pickups is difficult. The fiber contact shoe plate needs to come out, and you need a frame spreading tool to get it out without breaking the tabs on the plate. It can be taken out without removing the wheels, but it is difficult. Removing the wheels requires a wheel puller, and replacing them requires a press to get them on straight and quartered properly.

Larry

Thanks Larry!

You have confirmed my suspicions about removing that fiber contact shoe plate. I didn’t want to try spreading the side plates apart only to find out there was an easier way. I’ve ordered 24awg solid wire for the e-unit contact wires, which account for about 4 of the 6 wires in this engine. I’ll use 22awg stranded for the center rail pickup and the headlight lead. I’ll let you know how it goes.

i truly appreciate your help and advice.

jim