Lionel 1688

Classic Toy Trains Forum
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Hi i’m new here . I’ve had all my trains in boxs since 1980 and i just got them out and am starting to put a layout together. all 027. one is this Lionel 1688 can anyone till me about this train. The last time it would not go across my switchs I had to put it on a track by its self? Gary

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I think I know someone who might respond to this post . . .

He lives in Ohio.

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It might be his favorite engine even. [8D]

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Well, in case he doesn’t respond (and I am sorry to rain on his parade if he does!), the 1688 is a prewar (meaning it was made before1942) engine. Most engines from this timeframe had gears on their flanges that were too big in diameter to pass through modern switches.

The 1688 is a great looking engine,and if it weren’t for this issue, I’m pretty sure I’d own one (I still might someday). They did make switches that this and other prewar engines would run on, but I don’t know which ones they are. I’d guess that any switches made by Marx would work. Hopefully, our mystery man will reply to this statement.

J White

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Well thanks for the reply I look it up online and the only one I could find was a 1688E and it looks just like the one I have but mine dose not have the E on it. I knew it was from the 40es but I thought it was around 46 r 47. I think I should just put it on a shelf.
Gary

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Hello Gary & [#welcome] To the Forum! What’s this about putting your 1688 on a shelf instead of running it?[;)][:)] All you need are the prewar O27 switch tracks to run this engine(or any other prewar O27 for that matter) and you’ll be set. The Switch Tracks made after the war were made for engines with different wheel flanges than the prewar O27s and as a result are not compatible with each other.If your friendly neighborhood train shop does not have these Switch Tracks.Then, here are some places that should: Al Cox at 18025 8th NW Shoreline,Washington 98177-3542 Ph# 1-206-546-2230. The Trading Post Train Shop in Cleveland,Oh Phone# 1-216-661-7300. And,also try the auction houses such as Ted Maurer,Stout,Tiger,New England Toy Train Exchange,and Lloyd Ralston. All of them have websites and should be able to help you out. To keep your 1688 running at their Peak. Keep both ends of the Armature Shaft oiled as well as the Axle Bushings.One drop of Oil in each location will do the Trick. Also White Lithium Grease on the Gears to reduce wear as the 1688s have a high R.P.M. Motor and will take off like a Hemi! If you need new Pickup Shoes: Olsen’s Toy Train Part’s, Warrens Model Trains, & Dr.Tinker’s Toy Train Parts have Them & they all have Websites as well as other parts you may need for your 1688 & if you need any more help just let us know. P.S. 1688E’S were made from 1936-38; In 1939 Lionel dropped the E and Changed the Number Plates to “1688” until 1942 and after that. No More were made at all. What color is your 1688? Take Care.

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Greg, here’s some more information for you:
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=799
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=827 (think I’ve got the right motor)

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Thanks guys and Keith it is black.
Gary

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Arggh! I gave links for the 1668, not the 1688 (need new glasses). Here are the links for the 1688:
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=802
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=828

I believe the switch to which Keith referred is the 1121, sold from 1937-42, and again from 1946-51. This switch did not have a non-derailing function; here’s the link showing how to add this feature:
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=682

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Here is one of Keith’s 1688’s on my layout

tom

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Yes thats the one. I can’t beleave I still have the hole set. Hope all the light still work.
Thanks guys for all the help. Can’t wait till I get my layout up an running. Gary

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PS Tom how do u get the pic on here.

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here are two links that will help you

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20382

and

http://www.cuppleshobby.com/photoposting_instruct/

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Hello Gary- You’re very welcome for the help. All of my 1688s are Gunmetal Grey and I’ve only one that has never been restored and its a 1688E from 1937 with a thin casting and no Firebox Weight with simulated doors in the Rear Cab. Your 1688 is a thicker casting complete with Firebox and the front Cowcatcher section is also thicker. Lionel made this change in 1938 and stayed this way until production ceased for the war in 1942.The 1936-37 version had a very thin Cowcatcher and was lightweight. The 1936 versions were Black in color & most of them had a Winged Keystone Just above the headlight near the Smokehole and these are very hard to get due to the fragile casting and being made only one year(1936) In 1937 The Winged Keystone was eliminated and the 1688s were made without it for the remainder of prewar production. In 1940 the color was changed from Gunmetal to Black. In 1937-39 All 1688s were Gunmetal in color& in 1936,1940,1941,and 1942; 1688s were Black in color and the 1668s follow this same color pattern. If you need help with your 1688 at all, Just e-mail me. Take care & enjoy your 1688.

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[#ditto]

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I made an oval track to see if my trains would still run they all ran good but the 1688 went around the track twice running good then stopped. It’s acting like there is a short in it. What do Ya’ll think. Gary

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Hello Gary! A short is a possibility alright. Especially, with the old clothe wires that were used in those engines. I doubt it is serious. If you want I can take a look at it & fix it for you. Probably one of the wires is touching either a part of the side frame or the body casting & needs to be replaced. Never saw a 1688 that I Could not get running again. Just contact me at my e-mail & we’ll take it from there. Take Care.

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well do Thanks. It ran around light an all was working then just stop.Gary

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Oh yes I bought 2 switches made by Marx prewar on ebay I hope well work with this train. Gary