Lionel 520

Hello all,

I have a question regarding the Lionel 520 Boxcab electric locomotive.

I bought a 520 almost a year ago. (One year next saturday actually, at the NETCA train show in Marlbourgh, MA.)

I paid $30 for it. I ran, albiet not in reverse. The fingers on the reverse unit were found to be bent and corroded. I swapped out the reverse unit with a new one that I had bought at a train show for my Lionel 221, but much to my dismay, the E-unit I bought for my 221 was the wrong configuration (the bag had the right # (100-25), but the type matched the 100-8 in the 520)

The height of the new e-unit is not a much as the old one, so some modifcation to the 520’s E-unit mount was necessary.

The problem is the mounting of the 520’s shell to the frame. There is a hole in the shell at the midpoint on both ends, but only the front has a bracket to take the screw for the front end.

The hole on the back end seems to have been drilled in.

Any help would be appreciated.

Rebuild and use the original e unit

The 2 and 4 finger assemblies are available, even pre-wired if you desire. While it’s apart, clean or replace the drum as needed. Save your “new” unit for future use (or part it out to fix your old one). The fingers and drums are all the same.

Sorry, I just re-read the original post. I see you got the e unit in already and are having trouble with the cab; I thought at first that the new unit was interfering with getting everything back together.

Never Mind !

BTW, I love the 520. It is a dependable, rugged little creature that is underappreciated by many Lionelophiles

Hey, Sailor…

The 520s I’ve seen all have only 1 screw hole (on the non-pantagraph end).

Jim

There should only be one hole in the cab. The other side has plastic tabs that slide into the metal frame.

My 520 is right here with me, the plastic tabsat the rear of the loco have been broken off.

Now I have the fun game of “fix that loco” with it’s host “Youva-gotta Jerririggit!”

Thansk for the info.

the plastic tabsat the rear of the loco have been broken off.

A common problem. Plastic strut, Methyl Elthl Ketone, and a dremel. The repair will be inside the cab and under the frame so it’s not visible. Good luck.

Someone already drilled a hole in the back of the shell, so I have been thinking of using that in the repair effort.

When I bought the engine, if was held together with a rubber band.

Not exactly the best looking repair job.

Someone already drilled a hole in the back of the shell, so I have been thinking of using that in the repair effort.

There’s not a lot of room on the frame in that spot and the pilot wheels need clearance. You’ld need to fabricate a metal tab to use that screw hole. The plastic repair would be easier.

I Agree. The plastic repair would be easier.

To hide the drilled hole, you could put a screw in the hole to simulate it holding the shell on the frame.

Jim

To refresh my mind from wiring track, I took a peek at my 520 and agree with the comments that it seems a tight fit, but if I am imagining the place you describe the drilled hole, I too recommend a plastic repair…