Now this is unusual, how does an N-scale Modeler end up with this vintage 1947 Steamer?
Good friends and destiny.
I have in my posession a S-2 Turbine (as stated above), but i have issues with this engine.
btw if your curious she still runs fine but really noisy
My problems include missing pieces really, just found a nose piece, but the smoke box was covered in calcium deposits and CLR would destroy the unit, so where can i find a smoke box?
also how about a Front truck and Head light?
also what should i clean it with?
its dirty and missing the tender. talk about a restoration project for me huh?
I wounldn’t worry about putting too many $'s into it, one’s in reasonible condition can be had for well under $200. For parts the best bet is to pick up a junker that still has what you need.
I would look on ebay for either a junker as stated or maybe the parts the other shot in the dark is maybe Jeff Kane of the train tender ( basiclly a parts house) and you can call him at 585-229-2050
I’m just guessing, but that’s probably not calcium deposits on your smokebox, but rather resolidified smoke material.
Remove your boiler casting and throw it in a sink of warm soapy water. Then using a soft bristle toothbrush, lightly scrub the entire casting.
If it needs a complete re-paint (they often do!), that’s easy too. After scrubbing use some hardware store paint remover and a brush. Once the casting is clean and shiny you can spray using plain old Krylon brand “Satin Black”. It’s a perfect match for the original, and holds up very well. Then all you’ll need is some matching numbers for the cab (try The Underground Railroad Shoppe for these).
Add on the new smokebox front, and the casting will look as good as new.
While that’s drying, get some Noxon metal polish on a rag and go to work on the handrails and connecting rods. They’ll shine up nicely too.
You mention noise, yeah, they do that. The side rods and the plunger for the smoke unit tend to make a bit of noise…and I love it! The fronts for these are available at some parts places as RT mentioned. If it is a 1947, chances are that it takes a special “Smoke bulb” which has a dimple on the top. The tenders are available too. Not quite sure which will go with the 1947 unit…is it a #2020 engine? Mine has the #6020 tender, but its from '49. I may have an extra, but will have to dig through boxes. You can find them either on the eBay, or from dealers like Jeff at the train tender.
well i cleaned the smoke unit but the heating coil is shot so i might re-build it so it uses fluid.
krylon? ill look for it but never heard of it. [:D] ignorance a gift or default?
what will clean the rust on the side rods?
also id enjoy the sights and sounds as soon as i can muster up a new job to purchase track, cars, and a throttle
also where can i find a picture of the wiring diagram for this loco?
i seem to be missing a headlight and wires for the smoke unit and i have no clue where to connect them???
If it is a 2020 they had either a Lionel Lines 2020W or 6020W tender depending on when it was made, both look the same. If it is a 671, the earlier models with the silver nickel rims on the 4 sets of drive wheels had a Lionel Lines 671W (looks just like the 6020 & 2020), then when they replaced the silver nickel with thin blackened nickel rims on driver sets 1 & 4 and then no rims at all they came with a 2671W Pennsy tender.
As pointed out already, a good post-war parts dealer should have any parts you need, I personally use Jeff Kane at The Train Tender (www.ttender.com).
The headlight and the smoke generator are each wired between the locomotive frame and the center-rail pickups. Usually one of e-unit (reversing unit) terminals was used as a wiring tiepoint for the pickup node.
However, if you wire the headlight between the locomotive frame and one of the motor brushes, you can get directional lighting for free. Which brush determines whether it lights backing up (wrong!) or going forward.
Liquid smoke generators, unlike the pellet type, tend to burn up their wicks if run dry. If your replacement has this vulnerability, you may want to install an on-off switch for it, like those found in modern locomotives.
I don’t see any rims around the drivers, this would make it a later version with a 2671W Pennsy tender (this would be the same even if it had the blackened nickel rims on the 1st & 4th drivers).
Jeff Kane will have what you need to bring her back to her former beauty. If you decide to re-paint and number, use Krylon Satin Black and a stamp with ink from Sharon at Olsen’s Toy Trains.