While going through some of my late father’s things - I discovered a Lionel Chessie 8008. The complete trainset is there, save the power pack. I know they are DC and am aware of the history of Lionel and this line of trains. My quesiton is where can I get a power pack that will not burn this motor up? This is a beautiful set, lost in a time capsule all its own. I can remember how this set’s live steam helped spark my love of trains as a small child, and to have found it and own it is unimaginable! If only I could make it run!
Hello David!
All you have to do is go to your nearest Train/Hobbyshop & pick up an MRC H.O. Transformer (DC Power) & that will be all you really need for your Train as it only uses DC Current. Hope you enjoy your father’s train again. Take Care.
The 8008 is unique as it is the only die-cast DC only steam engine, it also has far better smoke output then the 8001 and 8007 which were the other 2 “better” DC only steamers.
Any power pack made for HO will work fine, such as Tyco, and these are often found a dirt cheap prices.
Ken
Sounds neat, let’s see a picture.
David, I can answer your question with authority because I run my layout on DC current and am very happy with this method and will keep things this way.
The small DC power packs, as those that come with HO train sets, will not be suitable for satisfactory operation of your loco. Ironically, these small black colored power packs with red handles (Tyco, Life Like etc) are the pretty much the same thing Lionel used with their starter DC powered sets.
These power packs have little sensitivity on the low end of current to the track, meaning your loco is just going to take off or stop very suddenly. The other thing is that these power packs DO NOT have the amperage to run any other illuminated cars, save for the loco. You might get one lighted caboose if you’re lucky. But it’ll probably heat up fast and then shut down.
If you want an inexpensive HO pack to run your loco, get one of the new HO power packs that come with current new sets. My neighbor bought either a LifeLike or Bachmann HO starter set, and the power pack in that one looked something like a stationary roller-ball computer mouse. But that thing was very responsive even a slow speeds. I tried it on a test loop with a few of my locos: it would not power a lighted caboose with a dual motored DC can motored diesel, but it did do fine with a single DC can motored steamer with one lighted caboose.
For the HO starter market, that power pack was a dramatic improvement over anything else I’ve ever seen on a lower end HO set.
You’d be much happier to get a larger MRC power pack (though really for suitable layout voltage you’re going to want one made for G-scale - and those get pricey). Even the MRC HO power packs are still limited in their amperage, so though they will run your loco nicely, especially the ones with additional effects - they still don’t have the reserve power to do much more.
The best solution (money -wise) is to either get one of the Lionel G-scale convertor boxes - made for running DC G
Wow. I did not expect this much response. I have no hobby shops close by. I have been buying mostly from ebay when I see a good deal. I have loved trains since I was a kid and somewhere have a ton of HO. Cannot find them, may be lost for good… Anyhow- have a trip to Richmond, VA first week of Feb. I will stop in a hobby shop there and get an MRC. I also will post some pics on here as soon as I clean her up a bit. Little dust for now… It is a beautiful piece of work. It is diecast and very heavy. Tender has a wheel loaded with something that makes the steamer chugging noise as it moves, kind of cool. I remember the smoke when I was a kid. That is what did it. Thank you all and I will post pics in the near future.
David
David, your tender has something called “The Mechanical Sound of Steam” which Lionel put on starter steam engines when Lionel was owned by MPC. It’s a wheel with bearings in it that spins and makes a simple “chugging” sound. The wheel should have a black rubber ring around it. If it doesn’t, you can use a large wide rubber band and that will do the trick.
The mechanicial sound of steam will work loads better with some small mods. If you have a Dremel, remove the tender shell and you’ll see the sound wheel is held into the frame with two triangular pieces with holes in them. The sound wheel will come out, which you’ll need to do to replace the rubber band. Using your Dremel with a fine small grinding bit, enlarge the holes in the frame mounts a little bit downward. The goal is to make the holes extend downward a little more, allowing the sound wheel to make better contact with center rail.
Adding a couple lead auto tire weights to the front and back of the tender will help the sound wheel to make continual contact with the track.
If the tender has the cheap black plastic snap rivets holding the trucks, you’d be advised to pop them out and re-attach the trucks with a truss head screw and a stop or lock nut. Tighten the trucks on tight, and then loose the lock nut enough so they turn to the left and right freely. This move will virtually eliminate all derailments from running a train backwards… trust me, this works. I don’t have derailments anymore, except when I screw up and forget to throw a switch.
Back to power packs: Lionel made a DC version of the AC powered 1033 for their HO line of sets, which would be a great choice if you wanted to build a layout using your current loco. You see them on eBay pretty frequently. Just search under “Lionel DC.” There also a G-scale Lionel power pack on right now, at a buy it now price of $20. I just can’t see the minimum voltage to the track.
Cannot figure out how to upload pic. Sorry.