I picked up two of these sets, a docksider set, and one yesterday, a Disney mickey mouse train set, I plan to weather them heavily and build a small two track O microlayout with Gargraves 3 rail flex.
Anything quirky about these sets that I should know about? I read not to double head them, which I don’t plan to do. This will be a simple two oval tabletop layout for displaying at train shows.
Gargraves track would be nice to use with those cars, the Gargraves track lasts a long time. One thing I have found out with Gargraves switches is that they don’t last all too long, one switch motor gave a problem and another switch track the rail looks like it is breaking in half on the switch.
If you can afford it try to use Ross Custom switches as they are better then Gargraves switches. You may have to cut the Ross switch down some to fit your layout.
"Yes, you should be able to do that. However, unless you also install an e-unit, he will be limited to one direction of travel.
“You could instead wire the bridge rectifier between the transformer and the track, with a reversing switch between the rectifier and the track. Then you will retain the train’s ability to reverse. However, this may cause complications when running his other trains when it is set up for DC.”
Well, if it’s a DC powerpack providing the juice to a Lionchief trainset, how can it run on an AC powered conventional layout? I must be missing something here.
Stupid question I know, but are you operating Lionchief or Lionchief Plus?
See my up-dated post below. Don’t ask me how but they work fine on the AC transformers. Must be in the board. Sure someone will kick in with the facts.
Toy trains have run on both AC and DC from very early times. At the beginning of the twentieth century, many locations had only DC available. In rural locations, windmill generators and batteries supplied DC; and sufficiently urban locations were supplied by Edison’s DC distribution system, which was practical only for short distances. Lionel sold resistive voltage reducers for city dwellers, to drop 110 or 220 volts to toy-train levels, although the track would remain at a lethal voltage relative to ground.
Toy locomotives used universal motors, that is, series motors with laminated magnetic circuits and able to run equally well on AC or DC. In recent years, permanent-magnet DC motors fed from rectifiers have replaced universal motors, as better magnets and semiconductor rectifiers have become available. But these also can run on AC or DC: A bridge rectifier puts out DC whether it is fed from AC or DC. I have yet to encounter a modern locomotive that will not run on DC, even though the manufacturer says to use only AC. The greatest problem is shutting off a horn or bell which sounds continuously when DC is present.
So compatibility with both AC and DC did not really require any innovation.
Where they say If you choose to run with transformer set it to full power. You do not need to do that. I set the transformer where the Grand-son’s LionChief train will not fly off the track and that way he can turn up his remote all the way up and still not cause any problems. [;)]