I reciently won on eBay auctions a GP-38,a GP-20, and a SD-28. The SD-28 is a 1981 with Fundimensions integeral motor and sits much lower than the others. The others have can motors in each truck. The SD-28 sits as low as the postwar GP-s, and there the lowest. The GP-38 and SD-28 bodies look the same at a quick look but have detail differences. They are higher than a GP-9 or GP-20 body. The Gp-38 with its higher body and sitting higher on the dual can motors is my highest loco. Its so high it dosen’t look good with traditional cars. I run a Hi Cube boxcar behind it.
I had Fundimensions early GP’s with there integeral motor and they ran so poor I sold them. Including a Rio Grande GP-7 power and dummey that really looked good with its railroady paint. My SD-28 runs acceptable I will try to buy more and skip the to tall dual can motors ones.
Dennis, I usually do not answer questions on the forum anymore as there are so many “newer” folks on here with lots of knowledge. No need of me saying “A-men”. I do scan through and look for those that have no replies. Saw yours. Good comments. I have picked up some of the K-Lines and others with can motors in the trucks. I repaint most to NS. I put weights in them to give them more traction. Best of all, I install ERR Cruise Combos [TMCC, Sound and Cruise]. Makes a good engine for lots less than the new high dollar engines. They are great if you are “hobbying” earlier RR’s that newer engines are not avaliable in those road names. To really do some pulling, with the ERR kits and TMCC, you can lash several engines together. Enjoy.
Dennis,
I agree in that there are some engines from many manufacturers that run high. Some look downright ugly they are so high up. That aside, if you want, you can still run the smaller pieces of rolling stock behind some of the O-scale items by putting in a few flat cars between them. It does take a little of the difference away and makes it less noticable. What I have take to is to run the smaller scale items up top on a elevated loop and have the full O-scale items down on the mail level. Works like the “Forced Perspective” idea that has been mentioned.
Good question. Don’t know. I got some bars from Cabela’s that you melt for fishing weights. I use a half of one. Years ago, I use to fill the fuel tanks with fishing weights. As many as I could fit. Now I stick them on the frame inside the shell as the fuel tank becomes the speaker holder. I use black W/S sealing rope available at all auto parts stores. It will hold anything.
Thank you Chief. I would call that the “Seems about right” method. Other methods are to add weight by some formula, like “Ten oz. plus five oz. per inch of engine length” or “Adjust engine weight until wheels slip at maximum recommended motor current.”
Always felt too much weight would “burn” the motors up. Back before TMCC and DCS, I use to tie as many as three engines together to one EUnit with teaters. Worked great and pulled good. Now with ERR kits, you install TMCC fairly cheap and “lash” those cheaper engines for good pulling power.