ok i recently got some older O-27 Remote Switches from my uncle, and have them in my layout, except that it seems like theyre not getting enough power and not swtiching properly.
I used to have almost 40 Lionel O27 switches, both 27" and 42". Yes, you are correct in that if your engine doesn’t require as much voltage to run as the switches need to (reliably) switch then you have a problem.
CTT did an article within the last year on how to make a modification so that the switches work via an external power supply. It’s simple. That’s your best option. Or load down your train so that you need 12 to 14 volts to run it. 10 may work but would be on the ‘iffy’ side.
- walt
In addition to what waltrapp said use some passenger cars as the lights will draw more power, that is what I did where I use 027 switches.
Lee F.
If you modify the turnouts for external power, keep in mind that they have no protection from burnout when you stop a train on them. The original design apparently meant to exploit the liklihood that a stopped train meant zero track voltage. That’s not strictly true, since you could stop a train in neutral over one; but it does make a burnout less likely.
The capacitive-discharge that Willpick just advised on another thread is a good way around this problem. You can use a 5000-microfarad, 35-volt capacitor charged through a 100-ohm, 10-watt resistor, or a number 53 lamp, from a DC supply or just through a 1N4001 from an AC accessory supply.
I have modified my 1122 postwar 027 switches for auxillary power and am using the capacitive discharge system which works great. The capacitive discharge unit produces a momentarily powrful surge that will move even a sticky switch that is in need of cleaning and lubrication. The discharge is momentary, so if you park your train on the switch, the minimal current flow through the solenoid after the initial discharge will prevent the solenoid in the seitch from overheating. The only problem I see with throwing switches in this way is there is often a large spark as the train wheels cross the isolated rail of the anti-derail feature and the capacitor discharges. I have tried to use different values of resistors to limit this sudden current flow and thereby reduce the spark but this has only helped a little bit. In the long run, this spark could cause pitting of the front set of wheels of the engine and also the track. I have this same problem using isolated rails and relays that control trackside accessories.
Has anyone found a solution to this problem or have experience whether this is a problem at all over a long time period?
The current from the capacitor isn’t any greater than it would be from a steady supply at the same voltage. In fact, after the first wheels have thrown the turnout, the voltage is much lower for the rest of the train. I have been doing it for years and have noticed no ill effects.
i posted this same question about a month agao and there is a whole thread on it…including some tips on how to do it. Good luck!
would you mind posting a link to it? and btw my trains is about 17 yrs old, i got it when i was three and the switches are a year older than me.
I can validate everything that Bob has been saying. A few years back Bob was kind enough to work with me on rewiring my Lionel O27 switches. He went as far as mailing to me a schematic.
I followed his directions and all was well.
As long as you don’t park a train on your switch(es) with your AUX power left on, you can get away with just wiring for external power, which requires no extra hardware short of some wire.
It’s a gamble that only you can decide if you’re willing to take or not.
- walt
well the transfomer i have is not a Lionel one, i dont know what happened to the orginal one that came with the set. its a Tech II 18 volt VAC controller
Link to Bob’s in-depth description of his CD setup.
http://www.trains.com/TRC/CS/forums/1073306/ShowPost.aspx
Roland
another pice of info is that as of right now, my layout is on the floor. i hope to have a table for it soon.