I just got a bottle of this stuff from Micro-Mark, but have not used it yet. The question is: After I’ve soldered two wires together and covered the splice with the stuff, what happens if I need to un-solder it. Does it peel off so I can heat the solder joint to seperate it? Will I have to melt it and the solder to get the wires apart? Anybody have experience with this?
Mike
Mike,
I was ready to buy that product to cover the solder joints on an LED that I wired into a Model Power signal, but I never did.
I will be anxious to read the replies to your question.
Rich
I used liquid electrical tape several times. I would prefer to use shrink tubing when making a splice. The liquid tape has a not so nice odor that stinks up the room and smells like PVC pipe glue with the same consistancy. After the first several times I used it the contents dried up (it was sealed tight) and I had to throw it away. It is not only sold by Micro-Mark and is available in hardware stores, Lowes and Home Depot. It does take time to setup and dry. I never tried to remove it but I wouldn’t reheat it unless it was outdoors.
With shrink tubing you have to remember to slide it on before you solder. There is another product called shrink tape incase you forget to put the tubing on first although i’ve never used it.
I used the typical red and black wires for my buss and I used the liquid tape in the red and black colors, some had to touched up after it dried but it was easier than heat shrink and electrical tape. I left enough buss wire slack in case I had to cut it or do some repair. I got my liquid tape at a electrical warehouse and really didn’t notice any strong smell,that was 2 years ago and no problems with it as of this date. It was easier to do all the soldering first and then go back and coat the wires after it was all tested. Jim.
I sometimes use the liquid tape. It does smell but the smell does not bother me much. Once dry there is no odor. It can be peeled of, st least I was able to peel it off a trial joint before I used it for real.
Whenever possiple I try and use heat shrink tubing.
Paul
The stuff I got from Home Depot reminds me of the vinyl patch stuff we used to use on our swimmign pool when I was a kid. Pretty darn stinky. So far I haven’t had to remove any - if I need to add another feeder next to one that was already soldered, I’d just strip the bus next to the existing connection for the new one.
For small stuff liek decoders and LEDs in locos I use small heat shrink. I don’t think I’d use the liquid electrical tape in a loco.
–Randy
You could probably buy some rubber cement at your local office supply store that would 1) do the same thing, 2) be cheaper, and 3) it’s peel-able. Personally, I prefer and use heat shrink.
Tom
I prefer shrink but have used liquid vinyl. I scrape it off with a finger nail or Xacto knife. Hit it with the soldering iron. Maybe scrape of any residue. Not a big deal.
Rich
I’ve used it several times. While it has an oder when wet, the small amount used on a few wire joints is hardly noticable a few feet away. A razor blade cuts it and it can be peeled off the joint. I don’t see a problem with it.
I’ve used it some. It works fine, and yes, it does smell until it cures. I’ve had to peel some off, and it was no big deal. Shrink tubing is the thing to use for bench stuff like decoder wiring, but that can be awkward when you’re doing bus wiring under your layout. (I don’t have a heat gun, so I have to use a soldering iron to shrink the tubing.)
Mister B, get yourself a heat gun. You will never regret it.
Rich
Dig he hair dryer out of the bathroom.
Dig the hair dryer out of the bathroom.
Rich
First- why spend extra (with Micro Mark) for something (Liquid Tape) every hardware store in North America carries? I bought some very cheap throwaway artist brushes to use, as the cap on Liquid Tape (product name) is a bit too large for small work. I use liquid electrical tape where things are too close to use shrink tube, or where using shrink tube will bulk up the connection too much- and particularly where using heat to shrink the polyolefin tube might damage adjacent parts! You can easily cut the cured product after it has set overnight, with any razor or knife, being careful with the wires. One thing that is beneficial is that by controlling the application of the liquid, you can create a plastic insulating “cushion” where a wire may have to abut a part of a chassis or model interior where abrasion might cause future connectivity issues. In small diesel shells, that is critical. Cedarwoodron
I used some from Home Depot on my control panel DPDT toggles where the small wires were sometimes in uncomfortably close proximity (where insulation melted back a bit, etc). Applied it with a toothpick, several coats. Smalled a bit but not an issue as far as I was concerned. Can’t tell you how removeable it is, however; maybe do a test?
OK. I am relatively new to this. But for a non-electrician I have done a considerable amount of electrical work and I am wondering why nobody responding to this topic is suggesting good ol’ electrical tape? I have laid quite a bit of track on my HO DCC layout so far. I am soldering most of the joints and I am also adding feeder lines on a regular interval. So far I am running just fine without any connectivity issues and my DCC control is just connected directly to the track at one point where a set of feeder lines drops down. I will at some point in the future (when I get more of my track laid or if a problem develops) run a buss line and connect it to all the feeders. I was thinking I could just solder the connections and tape them. Is there a problem with this plan that I am not aware of? My layout covers a 14’ by 18’ area and is pretty much a u-shaped layout.
Please enlighten me!
Thanks
wdcrvr
It should be very obvious if you go back and slowly read the OP’s question. Take your time.
He was asking about liquid tape, NOT different types of tape for insulating wire connections.
Everyone knows about electrical tape on a roll.
Rich
Electrical tape is too thick, too bulky, doesn’t stick that well, just to name a few.
Rich
Thanks for the replys and different ideas. My issue is quite simple. I already have the liquid stuff–I’m looking forward to trying it and believe it can do the specific jobs I have easier than many of the alternatives. It seems I can get it off with little trouble if I need to.
Thanks,
Mike
My impression has been that this site is for the promotion of model railroading through the unselfish sharing of information with others who are interested in this hobby. And most of the time my questions are answered by many friendly people who share their experience and opinions freely.
However, unfortunately there seems to be a few people who feel the need to belittle someone because they don’t like the question they asked, or the way they asked it, or for some other reason that only God knows. I am not illiterate. I do not need to “go back and slowly read the OP’s question.” I do not need to take my time as suggested by your response. I am well aware that “he was asking about liquid tape”. Perhaps you didn’t read my response “slowly” enough. I did not say anything about “different types of tape”. I was asking why it would not be ok to use regular electrical tape instead of the liquid tape. Fortunately, someone else didn’t have any problem understanding my question and was kind enough to respond with their opinion that the electrical tape is just too bulky and doesn’t stick well enough.
Response like yours will not help bring people to the hobby of model railroading.
Thanks again to all of the many people who have kindly responded to my questions in the past. I will continue to read and post to this site because the majority of responders are considerate and helpful.
I hope people consider what they are writing before they hit the send button. How you treat people on this site could make a big difference in how people look at this hobby.
Hope you all have a wonderful day.
wdcrvr
You seemed a little confused when you asked people to “enlighten? you.
Rich