I have a new Walthers Proto GP38-2, I need to know how to get it apart to add a decoder, The instructions say to pull up on the body, mine seems to be stuck any ideas?
Put loco upside down and look for tabs along the under frame. Make sure that loco is suspended as not damage details on the roof, an HO loco cradle is great for that. If GP38 construction is anything like their Proto 2000 F7 units, the tabs would be coming from the body/shell of the loco and notching onto the metal frame. You need to push each tab carefully with a small flat head screwdriver and push it away from the body. In the opened space between frame and tab, insert a wooden toothpick or something similarly to keep tab from locking again. Repeat for the other tabs. Then carefully lift the frame, you might need to further push each tab with a screwdriver while lifting each end of the frame.
The instructions that came with your loco are not real clear on how to do this. You first remove the couplers and then find two small screws located one at each end near the trucks and somewhat off center. You may have to turn the trucks to one side to locate them. Remove them and then you can lift the shell straight up and off.
Joe
Please excuse my jumping on this thread, but the issue of how to disassemble a loco for maintenance and maybe installment of a decoder is imho, a very important one. We pay several hundreds of dollars to get one of these beauties and there is no product information other than an exploded view to go along with it! Ok, producing a proper manual does cost quite a few bucks, but I am willing to spend a few (!) extra dollars on it, because it means a protection of my investment.
What I would like to see in such a manual?
- Exploded view
- Drawing and description on h2 to disassemble and service
- Spare parts list , incl. where to order
Im sorry but I forgot to mention that the loco is N scale.The couplers are not connected to the frame in any way and the only tabs I see are the ones that connect the walkway to the body! I,m sorry I didnt leave a better explanation earlier[%-)]
Almost all manufacturers of model locomotives, consciously or not, assume buyers will never need to clean and lubricate locomotives, let alone adding DCC. because they provide no or inadequate instructions on how to disassemble locomotives for access.
Compared to the above, blessed are those that sell locomotives with the shell separated from the mechanism. Installing is simpler than diasassembling, and if one knows how a shell is installed, it is easier to remove.
Mark
Madog, the Exploded view is included, at least with Proto 2000 locos.
I agree on detailed drawing and description, it’s missing. I installed several grab irons incorrectly only because Walther’s manual doesn’t provide detailed view and explanation beyond one exploded view diagram. At that point finer details get lost. On the loco it’s even worse cause you have to guess how to dissasable the unit on your own, or though the help of fellow members here.
Finally, the parts list is included, at least with Walther’s passenger cars. But don’t bother! When I called them for a replacement part, they told me they don’t carry individual parts! I had to purchase the whole car. [:(!]
Why is it that hobbyist accept things they would never do in real life? Would you buy a dish washer, knowing that you have to get a new one just because a 5 cent thingibob is broken? Would you buy a washing machine without a manual? Certainly not! Yet we do when we buy a loco or rolling stock, at prices sometimes exceeding the price of a dish washer…
Look at what Marklin, Fleischmann, Roco and the likes do in Europe - they all have proper service manuals, and they did that even before it entered EU legislation! In the times of globalization and “fast Money”, customer satisfaction apparently is not important anymore…
[V][V][V]
I don’t have this loco but I did remove the shell for a fellow model railroad club member who has one. The Walthers N scale GP38 shell sits on the frame similar to that of most Atlas N scale locos, only much tighter. I had to grip the shell in one hand while holding the loco by the fuel tank in the other hand. I gently rocked the frame from end to end (nose to hood end) until the shell worked its way loose. It takes a while, but the shell will come off. I believe the loco will take a drop-in decoder, but I don’t know which brand or model.
Thanks for your advice[:)]