Loco repair, maintenance, & detailing

I’m looking for good reference material on repairing, maintaining, and detailing HO gauge steam locomotives (plastic through brass). For example: How do I pull the motor and gears out of a 1980’s Bachmann 4-8-4, select high quality replacement parts (including adding a flywheel and adding dcc control and sound)? I’ve got some photos of a prototype so I want to add some detailing along the way. I,ve read John Pryke’s “Steam Locomotive Projects & Ideas” and studied the nwsl website but would appreciate more guidance.

Thanks,

The GN goat kid

First place to start would be Bachmann’s website. They have extensive documentation of past and current models, broken down by part number, etc. That should help with taking things apart.

You need to isolate the motor electrically to install DCC, so that it only gets electricity via the wiring to the decoder. Most DC locos have the frame hot, connecting to the right rail (when moving forward), with the ground side carried to the tender and then down to the left rail. Depending on the size of decoder and the space available, it can be mounted in either the loco or tender, but speakers go easiest in the tender because of space issues. Ideally, for good sound performance you need as much electrical contact as possible, so installing wipers for the ground side on the loco and the positive side on the tender will go a long way toward satisfactory performance without the sound cutting out.

If you can’t determine the correct worm gear/motor/etc to connect to the Bachmann drive, give NWSL a call. They usually know the best combination for common conversions, as well as being able to suggest what alternatives you may have. A internet search may also turn up someone else who has documented their own conversion, too.

I was surprised to find a good amount of info (not necessarily on exactly what you’re asking…only because I didn’t specifically search for it) on YouTube. More and more people seem to be uploading interesting stuff there. I recently saw a video of how to remove a roof from a passenger car to get to the insides…it horrified me to see the guy twisting it like that, but sure enough, it popped right off!

Give YouTube a try, it’s my 2nd ‘go-to’ for info, right after google. Just type whatever question you have in the search bar, just as if you were asking a person. Watch a few videos though, some are made by much younger kids but it should give you a little bit more information.

There are many reasons why it is sad that Bowser decided to get out of the model steam locomotive line, but not the least is that for a while they had a special repowering kit for Bachmann 4-8-4s. There might be one that shows up on eBay from time to time I suppose.

When pricing the cost of replacement parts it might be smart to keep in mind the advice often given, that being that often a perfectly good used locomotive of the same type might be cheaper than the cost of buying the replacement parts (even assuming they are to be had) not to mention the time and effort to make them work, which can be a challenge.

Dave Nelson

Yup. Youtube has been my go-to site for several years now when I need to learn how to stain a new ‘green’ fiberglass front door, how to reset my Samsung Gear S2, how to get hydrangeas to produce nice blue flowers instead of the default pink ones, and so on. It’s all there.

Even so, with some good will between friends and colleagues in the hobby, an exchange of PM’s where phone numbers and introductions can take place, and where a 15 minute phone call can have the two exchanging information in real time, is not to be discounted. A couple or three Skype sessions would be useful as well.

After spending some time onYouTube, and the Bachmamm and nwsl websites, I’m getting into the 4-8-4. The basic repairs look straight forward. Part of the slug may need to be removed to allow for a flywheel. I’m wondering about insulating the motor. This is also going to be an issue when I get into some of the old brass. Any information abot motor insulation?

Thanks,

GNgk

In most cases, you can isolate the motor by disconnecting it (i.e., removing the screws) and re-attaching it using caulk silicone. I would need to see what you are dealing with.

simon