I am using Bachmann EZ style track on my HO gauge layout. Over the past week, I’ve replaced the standard 18" radius switches and curves with 22" radius curves and #5 switches (22" radius turnout). The previous switches had non-powered (insulated) frogs, however the new switches have powered (non-insulated) frogs. My Athearn locomotive (P-42) runs fine when crossing the frog, but my Bachmann GP-50 (b-b style trucks) and 0-6-0 switcher either hesitate or stall completely when encountering the frog. Initially, everything (except the 0-6-0 ran fine) but now the GP-50 is stalling, too.
What ‘easy’ options do I have to remedy this? Could I use clear nail polish to insulate the ‘frog portion’ of the switch? I recall having seen (and discarded) instructions which discussed removing a cover on the bottom of the track and attaching or disconnecting something?
“STALLING” is either caused by ‘no power’ , or ‘shorting’, which does the same thing - removing power by divirting it.
YOU have to tell us what it is. Start with a $12 meter. ARE THE FROGS GETTING POWER?
A #5 turnout suggest WALTHERS. You did not specify. Walthers & Atlas code 83 and Kato use DEAD frogs. The ‘Nail Polish’ trick suggests Peco. It makes a difference. Shinohara’s have ‘powered’ frogs.
There is power. If I run the locomotives fast (faster than what would be realistic), the pass ovedr the switch fine. And, I can give them a slight bump when they do stall and they move off the frog and take off again.
I’ve read where short wheelbase loco’s will short over powered frogs. This is what I believe is happening.
on the live frog turnouts the point that is touching the stock rail transfers power to the frog. if the inside of the point or stockrail is dirty there may not be enough power being transfered to the frog. a long loco with all wheel power pickup may span the frog and point to keep the wheels in contact with powered rail. a shorter loco such as a 060 or a shorter diesel or a loco that is not picking up power from all it’s wheels may not make it across at slow speed. i’m having the same problem with the long radius peco turnouts and sometimes have to use a dremel with a brass wire wheel to clean between the rails. are you using insulated railjoiners on both frog rails of the live frog turnouts? where i am using peco insulfrog turnouts i have to use paint or nailpolish (not mine ) on the frog as the wheels of some locos span the insulation and cause a short. i didn’t have this problem until i switched to dcc.
If I had to guess, it would be that your truck axles are being lifted as they traverse the turnout, probably at or near the frog. Once on side of a truck is lifted, no matter what the reason, the other is sure to be lifted, or much more nearly so, if intermittently, and you will get loss of power.
I do also agree with the suggestion that your points rails may need cleaning or adjustment so that they provide power down to the frog.
Powering the frog on this turnout is optional. You need to look underneath. There is a wire that is just taped to the bottom. Connect this wire to a little “lug” and you will power the frog.
Don, I hate to be pointed at someone who is attempting to help, but if you only read the entire post…namely the first line, I specified Bachmann track, HO gauge and yes, #5 switch (Bachmann).
Thanks to everyone for the help. The frog is not the type that has the black plastic sheathing over it. It is entirely bare metal. The engine is stalling (I’m guessing a short) when it reaches the frog, but it may simply be that it isn’t picking up power over a non-powered frog?
Yes, this is exactly what I have (two of, in fact). And, the wire is disconnected underneath the base. So, this would mean the frog is non-powered at this time, correct? Would I solve the problem by powering them? I am not running DCC…its a simple single block layout.
Problem solved! I connected the lead to the ‘lug’ on the bottom of the frog. The frog is now powered and the locomotives sail through the switch smoothly. Thanks for the help, everyone!
