Shown below is the current layout I am running with a few additions not shown.
My question is that if I wi***o “hollow out” the middle, would it be best to make those modifications by taking out the 90 degree crossings, etc and adding turnouts & curves and straightening areas such as the top 35 degree crossing to make this happen OR would it be best to rip out and start over??
I am making a big assumption by jumping to the conclusion that your layout is in a corner and you hare having problems with cleaning trank and derails.
If that is the case, I would make two holes: One in the loop just right of top canter and one in the lower leg. I would not change the track.
I agree with spacemouse just cut two holes it seems easier.
Spacemouse, you got it.
Thanks for the replies.
The holes can be removable sections of the layout, like a section of town or a mountain.
If you wanted to get really crative, you could build a mountain with a door out the back that you could reach the secion of trac, but we could not see how you did it.
spacemouses idea seems right on the money
Good advice SpaceMouse.
Jamison, What did you make your track plan with? That’s almost exactly the same as what I was thinking about doing. Any chance I can get a copy of it? I’d like to steal it. I’d be modifying it a little because I might have more room at the top.
Anyway, I’d go with Spacemouse’s suggestion. If you can make it a pop-out section, I’d do that. That way you don’t just have a hole in the scene, but you’ll still have access to everything you need.
Once again, the man knows his stuff.
Sounds like it’d work to me…
I’m not sure but I think that track plan is an Atlas plan it came in a small blue book of track plans, Hey I just found my copy it’s called “blueprints for atlas snap-track HO layouts” the plan itself is No. 110 " the super pretzel "
bill
thats a very fine track plan , i like it a whole lot.
what is its size ? it sure would be nice if it would fit in my little building.
best regards, John
I had the same issue when I built my wide table-type layout, so I decided well in advance, to cut out the middle of my lake. I pre-cut the lift-out portion, and set it aside. When it came time to place it back, after the “lake” had been poured, including on the cut-out separately, I glued and screwed three pieces of the same plywood as the table top under the hole so that about 1/2" protruded out into the hole. When I set the piece into that hole, it was held so solidly that I can stand on it with impunity.
If you can, cut your hole in that loop formed by the two crossings at the bottom.
Chewie, as Roadrat said, it is the super pretzel. I have modified it alot from what is shown, mostly going all the way around it with a 21/2 grade asceding and then descending back in a reverse loop.
Thanks for the good ideas, gang. I’ll give these a try before ripping her all out.
J1
John, my layout is 6’ x 11’ with a 4’x6’ “L”
Chewie, send me your mailing address and I’ll make a copy of the basic plan with wire diagrams. Email me at jjgp@hickorytech.net if interested and its yours, J1
Great ideas everyone, but just to throw out an alternative thought-I’m a little older with a bad back-I can bend over to get under the table but may spend the rest of the day trying to get back up to fix the derail-as “selector” said a little bracing can make the layout strong enough to support at least one foot or a hand and a stretch with a step ladder-just a thought to approach the problem from the other direction