I have a section of the layout where I am going to use foamboard to make a retaining wall. I would like to use an adhesive to attach it to wood that won’t need a lot of clamping, but will give me more working time than contact cement so I can tweak the position if needed.
Any suggestions?
Rick
I would use an acrylic caulk, or something like LePage’s PL-300, which I can assure you is completely safe for foam. PL-300 takes many hours to harden to the point where you’ll do some damage.
Adhesive caulk should be fine. I used an adhesive for foam board when making cosplay props, but it bonded quickly, and I do not know if it would bond to wood.
-Kevin
DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk - $2.50-$3.00 for a tube at your local home improvement store and it holds very well. Work time: 30-45 min. Full cure: 24 hrs. You only need a thin layer.
Tom
I find lots of uses on the layout for this. Another advantage is that before the caulk cures it is easy to “work” . Also, clean-up is very easy with warm water, or on the layout I usually have a spray bottle of “wet-water” that is just right for cleaning up Dap Caulk.
I avoid any of the “silicone” labeled ones. They seem to skin ofer quickly and are more difficult to paint.
Regards, Ed
[Y][tup]
2 in 1 poly seam seal hand squeeze tube from Menards if you never want to reverse it.
If you don’t want to screw around and want the thing to bond in about 15 1/2 seconds.
Beacon Quick Grip.
That glue is almost too quick for me. I have to get myself psyched up through meditation before I use it[(-D]
If you wait two or three seconds to long the stuff flashes and it’s game over
Otherwise Alex plus as suggested by others that I have used if you are relaxed and have plenty of time
TF
DAP sounds like what I am looking for. Thanks.
Rick
DAP Alex Plus means plus silicone. Is it the other brands that are a problem?
If it has silicone, beware. It might very well attack any foams.
You’re right, I have so many different brands around I get a little fuzzy:
Sorry — Ed
It is acrylic, the silicone part is just to ntake away the crumble that painters caulk is prone to.
Several sites list Aleene’s tacky glue as a very good adhesive for styrofoam.
Loctite PL 300 Foamboard construction adhesive is made for attaching foamboard insulation to wood, concrete, etc. It is available at bix box home improvement stores in the US, and comes in tubes like caulks or other construction adhesives.
I’ve been using it to attach the insulation in my basement as I finish it. No problems so far.
As of Dec 2020, it is running about $3.50 for a 10oz tube in my area (northern Virginia).
I forgot about Aleene’s. I am working with foamboard and not straight styrofoam, and I do need to glue some strips of poster board to the foamboard to represent pilistars. The Aleene’s will be easier to work with for that. I’ll probably pick up the caulk to have on hand if I don’t like how the Aleene’s is going to work for attaching it to the wood.
BTW - this is what I am trying to accomplish.
I’m using ALEX Plus Latex Caulk WITH SILICONE and its working great. I’ve even had to take up some foam roadbed that had already cured, as I always do when I build a layout, and the stuff stays somewhat tacky and rubbery. I have noticed that regular ALEX painters latex caulk WITHOUT silicone can be a bit unsticky after it cures…comes up a bit too easily for my tastes.
As another has said, it is crumbly compared to the PLUS product WITH silicone.
I realize this stuff is relatively inexpensive, but is there a way to keep what is left in the tube usable after it is opened? I will only need a small portion for my current application but it would be nice to have it around for other down the road.
Rick
Yes. You need a cap that seals tightly on the nozzle. It helps to keep air excluded as much as possible. There are soft rubber caps that slip over the nozzle and can preserve caulk for literally years.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/smart-cap-caulking-tube-cap/1000652537
Bonus they also pierce the tube for you when you first open it.
If you use a standard caulking gun there is a tiny bit of residual pressure when you pop the ratchet at the end of placing a bead. Pop the ratchet and immediately put one of these caps on while the caulk completely fills the nozzle and has no chance to start skinning over. I’ve kept caulk in usable state for several years sealed up with these type of cap. There are other designs but this one is pretty handy.
I prefer to use purpose-designed caps as mentioned above, but I have put a plastic sandwich bag over the nozzle of an open silicone tube, tightened it down with a rubber band, and found it still usable months later. Doesn’t always work, but if you can’t find the right cap, you can at least give it a try.
I use these as well.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/smart-cap-caulking-tube-cap/1000652537
I also take the tip I cut off and stick it back in tip first and hold it there with tape. Works great.