The Bachmann 2-6-6-2 did not of course come lettered SP but wishing for something similar to the Verde Tunnel &Smelter MM3 I found the new H4 to be close’nuf for a stand in.
CB&O, that explains it! Rattled PM me your pictures and a link to I believe your video. I have been looking for a SP version now for a few days! [banghead] Now I know why I could not find one! [:-^]
My LHS does not have any H 4’s. How long is the engine, then engine and tender?
Cuda Ken
Having said that my two 2-6-6-2’s usually run like Swiss watches I’ have to admit that one now has a loud ticking sound coming from the front engine (that does not appear to be due to wipers catching on spokes), mainly occuring in foward and sometimes in reverse.
Suspecting the gearing, I’ve managed to lift the bottom plate assembly and the middle driver just enough to rotate the middle driver axle and gear in relation to the worm, without much change in the ticking behavior. I’ve not been able to remove the bottom plate assembly completely as something appears to be restraining it, perhaps the wiring to the assembly, but can’t see enough underneath, and don’t want to use force and damage it.
Suggestions welcomed!
Check the side rods and main rods! It is real easy for the main rods and crosshead guides to get bent inward causing the main rods to hit the crank pin of the next driver forward, causing a clicking sound and making the loco run rough.
Sheldon
I had the same sound in a BLI M1A, it was a cracked center tower gear. First steam engine I took apart. Did not feel like waiting 2 months for warranty repair.
OK, as of now the Blue Line Big Boy is out. Jim from the site brought over his BB Blue Line. Neither him or I could get the engine wiring plugged into the tender. On the PCM version the socket is out side of the tender, not deep inside of the tender like the Blue Line.
In the running for right now.
Bachmann H-4
Lionel Challenger, gray with smoke lifters. (found one at a fair prices)
Athearn Challenger, if it does not have the MRC decoder. Need to make another phone call.
Class A by BLI
Cuda Ken
My first check was to see if the side and main rods and valve gear were interfereing, but nothing found there, all clearances as they should be static and running.
Still would like to get that bottom plate off without breaking anything.
I have had several Spectrum 2-6-6-2’s apart. The only way to get the bottom plate off is to completely disassemble the loco, because the pickup wires go up through each engine, holding the bottom pate inplace with no slack.
So, to get each engine apart, you must remove the boiler top, disconnect all the wiring on the top of the boiler weight, remove the top boiler weight exposing the drive line, only then can you remove each drive engine from the lower frame and remove the bottom plate.
Sheldon
The H4 Is 15-1/4 inchs long over the coupler faces Engine is 9-1/2 inchs from the back wall of the cab to the front coupler face Tender Is 6 1/4 inchs from the rear coupler face to the front tender steps.
Variation cause by the engine to tender spacing i guess.
Re the Bachmann 2-6-6-2: If I recall correctly, the bottom cover plate is somewhat retained in place by the wires from the wheel pick-ups. Unless you’re repairing the wires or wish to drop the drivers, there’s not much reason to remove it. You can inspect the gears by removing the side cover from the gearbox - of course, the engine in question will need to be removed from the loco first. [;)]
A couple of years ago, I bought one of the original Bachmann 2-6-6-2s, used, at my LHS. The loco ran well both on the store layout, and again when I brought it home. However, since I had a lot of other projects on the go, it was left in its box until early this year. With the thought of finally beginning some alterations to this loco, I got it out and decided to do some tests to see how well it would pull. It certainly needs to have some modifications made to improve it in this area, but, while running it around the layout to see if there were any issues with clearances, it suddenly quit moving while on a grade. A quick look showed the drivers of only the lead engine turning, apparently with insufficient power to drag the loco and its non-turning rear engine up the remainder of the grade.
Upon dis-assembly, this is what I found:
There are teeth missing from the small part of the compound gear and from the gear which it drives, and there is some damage to the gear on the driver axle, too. This leads me to believe that the loco may have been lubricated with a non-plastic-compatible oil. After considerable on-line conversation with NWSL, I forwarded the complete engine shown, with its side cover, to NWSL. While I’ve yet to hear back from them, I’m hoping that they either have replacement gears available or that they will have them available, preferably soon. If anybody else here is having gear problems with thei
Hmmm, after looking at the photo and reading your’s and Sheldon’s messages I’ve become less enthusiastic about getting a look at the gearing. It’s more complicated than I had thought. After a bit more tinkering with the alignment of the rods and valve gear here at home the loco is quieter. I think I’ll hold off further action and see what happens with further running at the club.
Thanks all.
Isambard
[quote user=“doctorwayne”]
Re the Bachmann 2-6-6-2: If I recall correctly, the bottom cover plate is somewhat retained in place by the wires from the wheel pick-ups. Unless you’re repairing the wires or wish to drop the drivers, there’s not much reason to remove it. You can inspect the gears by removing the side cover from the gearbox - of course, the engine in question will need to be removed from the loco first. 
A couple of years ago, I bought one of the original Bachmann 2-6-6-2s, used, at my LHS. The loco ran well both on the store layout, and again when I brought it home. However, since I had a lot of other projects on the go, it was left in its box until early this year. With the thought of finally beginning some alterations to this loco, I got it out and decided to do some tests to see how well it would pull. It certainly needs to have some modifications made to improve it in this area, but, while running it around the layout to see if there were any issues with clearances, it suddenly quit moving while on a grade. A quick look showed the drivers of only the lead engine turning, apparently with insufficient power to drag the loco and its non-turning rear engine up the remainder of the grade.
Upon dis-assembly, this is what I found:
There are teeth missing from the small part of the compound gear and from the gear which it drives, and there is some damage to the gear on the driver axle, too. This leads me to believe that the loco may have been lubricated with a non-plastic-compatible oil. After considerable on-line conversation with NWSL, I forwarded the complete engine shown, with its side cover, to NWSL. While I’ve yet to hear back from them, I’m hoping that they either have repla
Ken, Ineed to reduce my collection, badly. and I can make availabe to you any or all of the following: Rivarossi C&O H8, Lionel UP Challanger, BLI Blueline N&W A, Bachmann C&O 2-6-6-2, P2K N&W Y-3. All have DCC and sound, are as new, test run only. If interested, con-tact me at glennmorlock@comcast.net or (270)877-6433. Glenn
Doctorwayne
Thanks for the interior picture of the gearbox, and as stated I’m sure its best to remove the boiler/cab for oiling/greasing the gear towers and worms rather than the bottom cover plates. And I’m sure this has been covered before but being a new owner of a H4 whats the best way of removing said boiler to gain access to the towers and are the tower side covers held on with screws or clips.
Thanks Larry
The steam dome is a press fit, it pops off and there is a screw under it that hold the boiler on. The cab sides spread at the bottom and it pots off. After that, you will see the wires that must be unhooked and the screws that hold the top half of the boiler weight on. Remove the wires and the top weight, than the runniing gear will all be exposed.
Sheldon
Thanks Sheldon
So… who do you think might be looking at a Yellowstone and which one? I have an EM-1 and an AC-9 in brass by Akane but would really rather have a newer “modern” model.
dlm
Modern did you say!
Would be really great if BLI planned on producing one of the DM&IR M4s in their Paragon2 series using the diecast boiler for heavy weight and great tractive effort.course they seem to lean more toward the Eastern roads but hey’ it could happen right?
I bet it would be the only time no one would complain “not another big steam engine”!
Reason I have not bought another articulated is because I bought a new engine. It is made by TORO with a 6.5 HP Brig and Stratton engine and is self-propelled with a 22 inch deck. Yep, the 17 year old lawn mower ate it’s decoder! [:D]
Ken
I’m still drumming my thumbs waiting for a Denver & Salt Lake 2-6-6-0 (or two) in HO scale. The prototype is an ideal-sized articulated for most layouts. I tell you, the manufacturers are clueless and are missing the big bucks. DO YOU HEAR ME?! I suppose not. Nobody listens to me.
Mark
I am debating after today weather to also buy another locomotive or look around the hole in my windshield caused by a flying rock from the dump truck in front of me today. It’s not that big of a hole or maybe I can just kick the windshield out and wear goggles. I have to ask why is it always my train budget that takes a hit every time something goes wrong?